tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8812262444786132192024-02-28T19:37:50.558-03:00Rod's Electronics ProjectsHome-made amateur open source electronics projects.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger20125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-12871302825447221662020-06-06T22:34:00.006-04:002021-02-02T13:41:50.251-03:00Restoring a Telegraph Key / Sounder20 years ago, I found this in my grandfather's basement.<br />
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I learned years later, that it belonged to my grand-grandfather.<br />
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I was immediately attracted to its complexity and beautiful engineering<br />
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<br />As for cosmetics, it was not only oxidized everywhere, but the isolation on the cables was also history...<br />
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After some research, I found that this is a <b>Field Sounder Mark II</b>, c1900, and even late 1800s.<br />
*Source: The Australian Telegraph Office - by Ron McMullen (<a href="https://australiantelegraph.wordpress.com/">link</a>).<br />
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You can find the description at #586 <a href="https://australiantelegraph.files.wordpress.com/2020/11/ron-mcmullen-collection-and-description-part-5-.pdf">here</a>.<br />
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I took it apart and began working in bringing back some life to the wooden base. I then stopped the project and left it sitting in my basement for the best part of the last 20 years<br />
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The year 2020 came along and I felt it was time to finish what I had started and aim for a full restoration and shiny bronze, so here goes my step-by step process:<br />
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<b>Step 1:</b> Remove the enamel coat. I used gel paint stripper:<br />
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<b>Step 2:</b> Submerge the parts in Liquid Rust remover (which is a strong acid) and leave dor a few hours.<br />
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At least the rust was gone, but I was super scared after seeing the chemical reaction with the acid: It turned everything to a brown copper color. But not all was lost: it was time for Step 3.<br />
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<b>Step 3:</b> Recover the golden color: Rotary metal brush.<br />
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Now we're talking. The metal brush on your dremel is a quick and great way to both restore color and shine.<br />
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<b>Step 4:</b> Polish to remove scratches and provide a finished aspect.<br />
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<b>Step 5:</b> This is the final step: reassembly.</div>
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I also found the schematics for the operation with another key for both continuous and intermittent mode.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFsB6BWBxCE78VdTbv7DuTmhPWyDBx50HFBpoN4wJGBtldqpEbWBknQhC9CrW8SG0UAX8PaAzOpBmg6H179tKEpAwXbNGcXePgCZCNxf9ulwK_iW4Rt8nEh_RRWHpBMz8l0BgxR419iNhS/s1600/IMG_7060.HEIC" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFsB6BWBxCE78VdTbv7DuTmhPWyDBx50HFBpoN4wJGBtldqpEbWBknQhC9CrW8SG0UAX8PaAzOpBmg6H179tKEpAwXbNGcXePgCZCNxf9ulwK_iW4Rt8nEh_RRWHpBMz8l0BgxR419iNhS/s400/IMG_7060.HEIC" width="400" /></a></div>
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The metal plate reads: "Caution: C is not to be connected to Z without first disconnecting the battery."</div>
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Which makes perfect sense since doing so would short-circuit the battery.</div>
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Now to the elecronics.</div>
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I have no one to telegraph to however, I'm thinking of sneaking-in a battery and do some microcontroller magic so I can talk to it by tapping the key and obtain a solenoid response.</div>
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The solenoid is 12V, so the first thing I want to test is to have it potentially working with 5V, and it does not.</div>
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I may come with an external circuit powered with 12V.</div>
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To be continued...</div>
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<br />Rodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17332129726048627379noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-11144928330488103372018-05-09T23:05:00.007-03:002021-05-07T13:32:09.660-04:00Incandescent light bulb effect simulated with a microcontroller and LEDsLast year, I received this marquee sign as a gift:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVBmvbp-2GVURNo8zUccyPFEBGGyKhoEceuU8xedQkaD0V6j16clLVaqxucPl414VaMIqiXYOuKTWmK6W8v6nU_Gl39E4mwxLEP5h-8LGhjS96uOowdun_HRpqnhyyB5MU_ER5g9oMcYFU/s1600/s-l1600+%25284%2529.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1199" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVBmvbp-2GVURNo8zUccyPFEBGGyKhoEceuU8xedQkaD0V6j16clLVaqxucPl414VaMIqiXYOuKTWmK6W8v6nU_Gl39E4mwxLEP5h-8LGhjS96uOowdun_HRpqnhyyB5MU_ER5g9oMcYFU/s320/s-l1600+%25284%2529.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
What do we have?</h2>
A beautiful marquee sign: simply constructed on a real metal frame, printed cardboard with printed rust, printed screw holes and such for aged-tin effect. It looks fairly realistic and pleasant to the eye.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKcmCsiHWYd-5ne4M22fq4lRk9dRV4OqJdQbcGmffcGKZNqwI4bnHMTIOtYByPd4Bn3ItaErJfgIv5IRq3RAO1sjjWwUVkhpsikofealemElhwE531qO3HL_tafb9w7yn7Kex5TwuisepF/s1600/IMG_2958.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKcmCsiHWYd-5ne4M22fq4lRk9dRV4OqJdQbcGmffcGKZNqwI4bnHMTIOtYByPd4Bn3ItaErJfgIv5IRq3RAO1sjjWwUVkhpsikofealemElhwE531qO3HL_tafb9w7yn7Kex5TwuisepF/s320/IMG_2958.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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A very nice detail I found are these mock-up light bulbs ,made of a small glass bulb screwed on top of a standard warm white LED:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrn1sufiAH6yG_aewICLzeQg_pwmUimvMMy1xsppBptiNVRu_F4ciyZnNQyluQs1S_nO8FYXut5lpKAd2OXhkdErs85rR9eDDMOt0vaMKsWRVlvyokno8_WEyscs6TlW9ug6z81oADxFj/s1600/IMG_2977.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrn1sufiAH6yG_aewICLzeQg_pwmUimvMMy1xsppBptiNVRu_F4ciyZnNQyluQs1S_nO8FYXut5lpKAd2OXhkdErs85rR9eDDMOt0vaMKsWRVlvyokno8_WEyscs6TlW9ug6z81oADxFj/s320/IMG_2977.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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A small switch on the side closes the circuit delivering 3v from two AA batteries located on the back, allowing all of these leds to turn on simultaneously. It's nice to see it lit, but there is room for a small project.<br />
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<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
</h2>
<h2>
Room for improvement:</h2>
This sign is crying for enhanced simulation, so this project will consist of:<br />
<br />
1) Adding a sequence for the bulbs just like the real deal.<br />
<br />
and<br />
<br />
2) LEDs bright up instantly, and there's no nostalgia in that. Instead, let's emulate the slow paced filament / tungsten / incandescent effect of vintage light bulbs.<br />
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This whole project was influenced by real marquee signs such as the one below<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJkpsJpTibOAjKdrB079BboyCWwyzyWdoWzzqUeljXskkAUWSk-25RFflUSpOmlBGhPR4aZLPU1fweCcQ6bLNQctNaW2_bCb0p5jUHyIXKtN8A_TgHPiUolRYMB9tQaptrskdWkyPH0la/s1600/starbrite.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="693" data-original-width="1229" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJkpsJpTibOAjKdrB079BboyCWwyzyWdoWzzqUeljXskkAUWSk-25RFflUSpOmlBGhPR4aZLPU1fweCcQ6bLNQctNaW2_bCb0p5jUHyIXKtN8A_TgHPiUolRYMB9tQaptrskdWkyPH0la/s320/starbrite.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>some of you may recognize this sign.</i></div>
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<h2>
Solution:</h2>
This is a relatively simple microcontroller project, so let's get it done:<br />
<br />
Requires cutting the original connections and rewire them to the PWM pins on the arduino.<br />
The pins you choose NEED to be PWM if you want to simulate the filament effect.<br />
<br />
I wired each letter individually and treated the bowling pin as an individual, (the LEDs on the bowling pin are in parallel).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHieOzlAtMMggdMEpOjjCfUFFFdKqIuhxK25pLPFnCjEFDLnjcJtLCzHUn-L14vM_BRIJPcyXeQFBhJy5IKJ5FmOl9_Sn8Ms7MI-T0uqx1QGyLGqzVyMcW6E-wSEA15OV4-Gr2lMy3_mhf/s1600/IMG_2974.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHieOzlAtMMggdMEpOjjCfUFFFdKqIuhxK25pLPFnCjEFDLnjcJtLCzHUn-L14vM_BRIJPcyXeQFBhJy5IKJ5FmOl9_Sn8Ms7MI-T0uqx1QGyLGqzVyMcW6E-wSEA15OV4-Gr2lMy3_mhf/s320/IMG_2974.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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The original battery holder was also replaced by a holder for two 18650 type batteries. These will deliver 8v but the voltage regulator on the Arduino nano takes care of the excess voltage.<br />
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<h3>
The light bulb effect:</h3>
There is a way of achieving this with an analog circuit (<a href="https://maker.pro/analog/tutorial/how-to-make-an-led-simulate-an-incandescent-bulb" target="_blank">more on that here</a>), but I went for a software solution since the Arduino board was already in.<br />
<br />
So here's my gift to you people: How to accurately simulate a lightbulb by means of applied science.<br />
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It's not a matter of slowly turning a led on or off in a linear fashion, no: that doesn't look natural nor responds to the way the I-V curve of a light bulb behaves in real life.<br />
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If you want a more realistic approach, you should go for an exponential equation that looks like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ4H5xFjK4cS-hlRguKSgdFlXMwYWlUyKzH351ywn39SsNTj6cqTiD9siMvIgzjaa4nM1qd3kj2YMzJtxlIlKrmRd3ITrzjA8x75AEE51spkMmduvxXtwN4HpFur0iY2GlYuvrmOM-u_tP/s1600/Capture.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="434" data-original-width="990" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ4H5xFjK4cS-hlRguKSgdFlXMwYWlUyKzH351ywn39SsNTj6cqTiD9siMvIgzjaa4nM1qd3kj2YMzJtxlIlKrmRd3ITrzjA8x75AEE51spkMmduvxXtwN4HpFur0iY2GlYuvrmOM-u_tP/s640/Capture.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The blue line represents the turning on phase, and the red one when the led shuts down.<br />
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To accomplish this, you may use an equation of the form:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AkvCiX6ft4X18usqqcAAX9GXLyJ4JxNPmlWTZgrfM4LADgx4sfVY1Dq2eHeoE6RXvEZcqv4DchyDejmw1YhqdFWMpe6frBlS5dwANaaOTN3U3qCCBvLo3KCF7Jo5_KgZK16D0cakaLPv/s1600/Capture2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="51" data-original-width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9AkvCiX6ft4X18usqqcAAX9GXLyJ4JxNPmlWTZgrfM4LADgx4sfVY1Dq2eHeoE6RXvEZcqv4DchyDejmw1YhqdFWMpe6frBlS5dwANaaOTN3U3qCCBvLo3KCF7Jo5_KgZK16D0cakaLPv/s1600/Capture2.JPG" /></a></div>
<i>Source: 1st order differential equations (<a href="https://www.math24.net/learning-curve/">https://www.math24.net/learning-curve/</a>)</i><br />
<div>
<br />
<br />
In this case Lmax is equal to 255 since PWM on the atmega 328 fluctuates between 0 and 255.<br />
I chose k = 0.02 to shape the curve to my liking, and M=0 (M being the resulting value of L(t) when t=0)<br />
<br />
The equation looks like this when coded in C or Process and the aforementioned values are applied:<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i><span style="color: #666666;">led_intensity = 255-((255-0)*exp(-0.02*t));</span></i></div>
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...where the function <b><i>exp(x)</i></b> means <i><b>e</b></i> to the power of <i><b>x</b></i>.<br />
<br /></div>
And voilá, the project is finished and the sign is much more fun to watch now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7kIEilB5M37HXkL4o8JJfPF5R1L2fediOiNNsSHcapZNqfd6_inex3d4D8oh2RHX1Md77bWR2oTOR7GoaVhVN598hikdXs-JEYQN7TBYPxkeREOO5x0ssqCzlZ39l_1JmLQfhg_tcwco9/s1600/Webp.net-gifmaker.gif" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="800" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7kIEilB5M37HXkL4o8JJfPF5R1L2fediOiNNsSHcapZNqfd6_inex3d4D8oh2RHX1Md77bWR2oTOR7GoaVhVN598hikdXs-JEYQN7TBYPxkeREOO5x0ssqCzlZ39l_1JmLQfhg_tcwco9/s320/Webp.net-gifmaker.gif" width="240" /></a></div>
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This animation above does not reflect the incandescence effect, but you get the idea. Try the code and play with it!<br />
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<b><u><br /></u></b>
<b><u>Sound effect bonus:</u></b><br />
You may have noticed that the Arduino nano sits on top of a green PCB. This is because I may decide to add a 5v mini relay and have it click every time a bulb turns on or off. Then the effect will be complete, by emulating the clicking sound of vintage marquee signs.<br />
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<h2>
Code:</h2>
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<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #666666;"><i>/</i><i>// June 2017Marquee Bowling sign with Tungsten filament lightbulb simulation using LEDS</i></span><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i><i><span style="color: #666666;">// Pin number definition follows</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">// These all need to be PWM pins, so that explains the choice for 3,5,6,9 and 11.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define B_lamp 3 </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define O_lamp 5</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define W_lamp 6</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define L_lamp 9</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define BOWLINGPIN_lamps 11</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define max_illumination 110 // Up to 255, this defines the maximum illumination you want</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">// multiple lamps in parallel require an extra for extra current so we need to compensate for that</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">// otherwise the letters on the sign will glow brighter than the bowling pin</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define max_illumination_for_bowling_pin 255 </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define pausa 1000</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">#define filament_simulation 1500 // This parameter allows your lamps to turn on an off quicker or slower depending on the type of light bulb and voltage you are simulating.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #666666;">// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">void setup() </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">{</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> // Serial.begin(9600); // This is for debugging purposes, disabled by default. </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> // initialize digital pins</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> pinMode(B_lamp, OUTPUT);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> pinMode(O_lamp, OUTPUT);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> pinMode(W_lamp, OUTPUT);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> pinMode(L_lamp, OUTPUT);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> pinMode(BOWLINGPIN_lamps, OUTPUT);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">}</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #666666;">// the loop function runs over and over again forever</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">void loop() </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">{</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> // Program the sequence you like. This is the one I chose.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_on(B_lamp);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_on(O_lamp);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_on(W_lamp);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_on(L_lamp);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> blink_bowlingpin();</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa*3);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_off(B_lamp);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_off(O_lamp);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_off(W_lamp);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_off(L_lamp);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_off(BOWLINGPIN_lamps);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa*2);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">}</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #666666;">void turn_on(int lamp)</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">{</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> int maximum = max_illumination; if (lamp==BOWLINGPIN_lamps) maximum = max_illumination_for_bowling_pin; </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> // Now we initiate the slow glow effect</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> for(int tungsten=0 ; tungsten <= 200 ; tungsten++)</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> {</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> float level = 255-((255-0)*exp(-0.02*tungsten)); // This is what really matters: an exponential equation for realistic light bulb simulation, not that linear rubbish.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> level = map(level,0,251,0,maximum); // Remap the maximum to the desired level.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> analogWrite(lamp, level); // PWM comes to save the day, that's why we analogWrite</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delayMicroseconds(filament_simulation); // How fast or slow you want your bulbs to be</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> //Serial.print(tungsten);Serial.print(";");Serial.println(level); //This is for debugging only.</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> }</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">}</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #666666;">void turn_off(int lamp)</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">{</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> int maximum = max_illumination; </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> if (lamp==BOWLINGPIN_lamps) maximum = max_illumination_for_bowling_pin; </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> for(int tungsten=0; tungsten <= 200 ; tungsten++)</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> {</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> float level = 251-(255-((255-0)*exp(-0.02*tungsten))); // The same curve, in the opposite direction</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> level = map(level,0,251,0,maximum);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> analogWrite(lamp, level); </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delayMicroseconds(filament_simulation/2);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> //Serial.print(tungsten);Serial.print(";");Serial.println(level);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> }</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">}</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span style="color: #666666;">// Now some blinking to catch the eye of the distracted driver on the road and get them into our bowling business</span></i><br />
<br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">void blink_bowlingpin() </span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">{</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> for (int blink=0; blink <3 ;blink++)</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> {</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_on(BOWLINGPIN_lamps);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa/2);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_off(BOWLINGPIN_lamps);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> delay(pausa/2);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> }</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;"> turn_on(BOWLINGPIN_lamps);</span></i><br />
<i><span style="color: #666666;">}</span></i>Rodhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17332129726048627379noreply@blogger.com0Santa Clara, CA, USA37.3541079 -121.9552355999999837.253154900000006 -122.11659709999998 37.4550609 -121.79387409999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-83943722093945535062015-09-23T09:27:00.000-03:002015-09-28T22:25:06.024-03:00Illuminate your Space Shuttle the way it deserves<b:if cond='data:blog.url == "http://rodelectronics.blogspot.cl/2015/09/illuminate-your-space-shuttle-way-it_26.html"'>
<meta content='PAGE-DESCRIPTION' name='Lego Space Shuttle illuminate'/>
<meta content='PAGE-KEYWORDS' name='illuminate, led, lego, space, shuttle, atlantis, nasa, spotlight, leds'/>
</b:if>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvTIYpK8p6hMykO1n2gosNiRztgwwIlWRg7_qnTNhEIRvbzXXyvCCo5DxU71n9edPpkiSlnmT0ICfGPewO2chwZ9WffAZX_T513LHyWDbFVJpa730ZQzuCSbX1f-1nSNh7SfP4wuP5cec/s1600/STS-135_Atlantis_rollout_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifvTIYpK8p6hMykO1n2gosNiRztgwwIlWRg7_qnTNhEIRvbzXXyvCCo5DxU71n9edPpkiSlnmT0ICfGPewO2chwZ9WffAZX_T513LHyWDbFVJpa730ZQzuCSbX1f-1nSNh7SfP4wuP5cec/s640/STS-135_Atlantis_rollout_1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This particular project somehow embodies three of the things that amaze me the most: Electronics, Space Exploration (particularly the STS since I watched the first Columbia launch live on TV back in 1981) and yes: Lego.<br />
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I acquired this set (# 10231) very recently without really understanding why didn't I get it when it first came out but anyway, this gorgeous Shuttle finally decorates my home office and it's staying.<br />
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One of the first things I thought after playing with it was "wouldn't it be cool if..."<br />
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Okay you get the idea, now to the project.<br />
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The implementation is simple and I executed it in two hours: Add LEDs to the spotlights of the set while adding a nice feature: <span style="color: #f1c232;"><b>have them power up automatically whenever there's no enough ambient light for an incredibly cool effect.</b></span><br />
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First thing was to figure out a simple circuit and for that Internet can be your friend:<br />
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Thanks to the people at <a href="http://www.buildcircuit.com/dark-sensor-using-transistor-phototransistor-and-photodiode/" target="_blank">Build Circuit Australia</a><br />
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This circuit senses ambient light with the phototransistor and if it gets dark, it fires up the LEDs.<br />
Power consumption when idle is 0.9mA and when fully lit is 1.4mA.<br />
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The reason why this circuit draws current when idle is because that in the presence of light (or IR light) Q3 turns on and current will flow through it, and through the Base-Emitter junction of Q1.<br />
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When Dark both Q3 and Q1 are turned off. R1 then takes control, exciting the base of Q2, turning the LED on as a consequence.<br />
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I changed several resistor values here in order to make it work the way I wanted. I also used PN2222A NPN transistors just because I had those laying around. So feel free to play around with these values until it works the way you want.<br />
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Some soldering, I added a switch for MECO (that's NASA terminology I feel like using for this post).<br />
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Batteries on the flip side:<br />
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Prepare the MLP (more NASA terminology for you to find out in case you are not already familiarized) and modify accordingly for it to receive the new circuit and power supply:<br />
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Here you can see it fits right between the SRB underneath the stack. The added circuit remains invisible to the spectator.</div>
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Now the trickiest part, yet still fairly easy to accomplish: Fit the LEDs. I used isolated fine copper wire from an inductive charger. You can find this type of wire in an old transformer as well.</div>
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Done.</div>
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And done. The wire is barely visible, and I use some Lego parts to hide it further. The cables go straight to and behind the TSMs and then routed to the circuit board.<br />
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Finished Project. You can see I'm using my hand to shadow the phototransistor for this particular test:<br />
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View from behind:<br />
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End result. Whenever it gets dark, the Shuttle remains visible.<br />
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Enjoy!!!!!<br />
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<br /></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-22797939414912357832014-10-07T17:55:00.002-03:002015-03-23T15:27:54.443-03:00Retrobright your R2-D2<h3>
Yellowed R2-D2?</h3>
<br />
This R2 unit was acquired from some jawas who came by my house a long time ago...<br />
<br />
So long ago, that its shell yellowed from the effects of the UV and its 12+ years of ownership.<br />
<br />
This is the Hasbro voice command R2 unit, made of plastic..<br />
<br />
Since the yellowing is caused primarily by the bromine present in the flame retardant the manufacturer adds to the ABS plastic, I thought of actually reversing the yellowing process instead of painting R2.<br />
<br />
This can be accomplished with a mix called <a href="http://retr0bright.wikispaces.com/" target="_blank">Retr0bright</a>.<br />
<br />
These are the preliminary results after day 1:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimzi_Mo3-sodqI3QOttt3xYQxD4pdL6HjP9vjzZ8XZiqgTD3HzjKIY5jFxOrDvfR2THnTY3KQXNCeP6iS0J5W255ikQYQZg2bOqTz6kE0UKKKI9mtuusPF6Wz6_bP568-En0dBveZaqxHa/s1600/before_after.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimzi_Mo3-sodqI3QOttt3xYQxD4pdL6HjP9vjzZ8XZiqgTD3HzjKIY5jFxOrDvfR2THnTY3KQXNCeP6iS0J5W255ikQYQZg2bOqTz6kE0UKKKI9mtuusPF6Wz6_bP568-En0dBveZaqxHa/s1600/before_after.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Left: 10:30am. Right: 6:00pm after brushing it with Retrobright and direct UV from sunlight.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mv4j1Gg65Qirke0QYbyy_vVEGevQF_YFp4sZjUTxfnQD_-jw1q8pn2d6ZcTVIJRtgFiLVO8_h5RbWteDAXcd2VuNk1DVu6st7kCyI1gJfll3_uX9L87mt461QLIKRdDU8SlV5EVh762c/s1600/door.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9mv4j1Gg65Qirke0QYbyy_vVEGevQF_YFp4sZjUTxfnQD_-jw1q8pn2d6ZcTVIJRtgFiLVO8_h5RbWteDAXcd2VuNk1DVu6st7kCyI1gJfll3_uX9L87mt461QLIKRdDU8SlV5EVh762c/s1600/door.jpg" height="176" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
The results are impressive to say the least. The yellowing does not go away completely but I am very satisfied with the improvement. Texture of the plastic was not affected in any way, although the blue paint got some stains that I think I can fix with polishing with some cloth.<br />
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<h3>
Skills required:</h3>
<br />
- Disassembly skills and (screwdrivers+patience). There's an instructive video on <a href="http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=r2d2%20disassembly%20hasbro&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB8QtwIwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Do2NcWLEu4ck&ei=rNgxVMGJIM-IsQSMooHYBw&usg=AFQjCNGwaDl2bKyM1S5wXHOY5YZJ7n_Vhg&sig2=tEUXBUPIeqgv7Pn5PyKhOg&bvm=bv.76802529,d.cWc" target="_blank">how to disassemble R2</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0CIZgJQ0q-MbNgJXZELbcMmYbz8qXqS3X-Rbi4yalcLMGEHSCJqa3VICGEhU9cHl71eCLkV6W7dr8YBdduwfzCRsY-NjWz22e2V1c46FcYE7CqFjcyPljAF3ihPOxzrOIa1axTktzj5eu/s1600/display.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0CIZgJQ0q-MbNgJXZELbcMmYbz8qXqS3X-Rbi4yalcLMGEHSCJqa3VICGEhU9cHl71eCLkV6W7dr8YBdduwfzCRsY-NjWz22e2V1c46FcYE7CqFjcyPljAF3ihPOxzrOIa1axTktzj5eu/s1600/display.jpg" height="120" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />
<br />
- Soldering skills. Quite a bit, yes. In order to truly separate all the plastic from electronics, you need to de-solder some of the wiring. And you want to truly separate plastic because you will need washing, brushing, painting, rinsing your droid. Attempting this on an assembled model will be MUCH harder.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhb9VRM8EAAEp3H2oh4ipsFvJl_W9ef_PmquxHU1Tzmfz0kCgpguW79J2S5ABhX-DkHqEVUeeHGbxNz635dPbJn3RVvDA3Niovr1KIwN1tp8UC-md2OWj8RtUKRgGciiTjbAyt-HSiCHWo/s1600/IMG_4531.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhb9VRM8EAAEp3H2oh4ipsFvJl_W9ef_PmquxHU1Tzmfz0kCgpguW79J2S5ABhX-DkHqEVUeeHGbxNz635dPbJn3RVvDA3Niovr1KIwN1tp8UC-md2OWj8RtUKRgGciiTjbAyt-HSiCHWo/s1600/IMG_4531.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Inside R2.</i><br />
<i><br /></i><i><br /></i><i><br /></i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4TFrDDkaJx5UuBebQ7JlcAHEjbHaObp0qXnThsYjFhvWgV4zWeqJVmwhocBW56oyfFPJDZUDmnaHlFLFcDhKPHNoYRG_JKE63lDCVLoQo2bMgKVl9Nnebov5gu_JNXyt-nadjssuEDLNL/s1600/IMG_4523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4TFrDDkaJx5UuBebQ7JlcAHEjbHaObp0qXnThsYjFhvWgV4zWeqJVmwhocBW56oyfFPJDZUDmnaHlFLFcDhKPHNoYRG_JKE63lDCVLoQo2bMgKVl9Nnebov5gu_JNXyt-nadjssuEDLNL/s1600/IMG_4523.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<i>Detail of motor circuit being de-soldered.</i></div>
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<i>Ultra-Violet (UV) exposure for 7 hours</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Get it done:</h3>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<div style="text-align: left;">
1.- Check the weather forecast and ensure a full sunny day if that is possible at your location.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
2.- Lay your plastic parts as separate to each other as you can, so they don't shadow themselves.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
3.- Put on your gloves and goggles and prepare a Retr0brite mix. 1/3 of a cereal bowl should do. It will seem too much at first but you will be re-applying many times throughout the day until you deplete your dose.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
4.- Paint a layer over the yellow. Try to avoid paint and stickers but if you paint over them there won't be substantial damage to the paint so no need to be perfect.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
5.- Leave it there for two hours and re-apply as soon as you see it's drying out. Rinse your latex gloves with water every time, then remove them from your hands.</div>
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6.- Let the sun do its magic.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
7.- Go to step 5 until sunset.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
8.- Rinse your plastic parts one by one and use a brush to ensure mechanical removal. Don't ever remove your gloves nor your goggles.</div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
9.- Repeat another day if needed. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
10.- Sell it to the same Jawas for double the price. </div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
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<h3>
<span style="color: red;">WARNING:</span></h3>
<br />
This project is <b><u>not </u></b>for kids. Maybe not even for adults (if you happen to have another droid to do this for you, have HIM do it.)<br />
<br />
The reason being that Hydrogen Peroxide at this concentration can <a href="http://www.livestrong.com/article/150174-effects-of-peroxide-on-the-skin/" target="_blank">SEVERELY BURN YOUR SKIN</a> or BLIND YOU FOR GOOD.<br />
<br />
I used latex gloves at all times, and while rinsing the plastic with a brush I accidentally sprayed some of the substance straight to my eyes. I was wearing eye protection, however I experienced some burning on my face out of oxidative stress on skin, to a point it hurts and whitened the surface of the skin.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: red;">USE IT AT YOUR OWN RISK AND WEAR EYE AND HAND PROTECTION AT ALL TIMES</span><br />
<br />
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<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-8110345463129568822014-04-13T12:05:00.001-03:002021-03-13T12:24:13.344-03:00Lower the volume on your Fluke Multimeter in ten minutes (or less).Industrial multimeters are not designed for your quiet and peaceful electronics lab. They are designed for industrial, loud environments.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_CaiTPGTVJR2A5G7ZzFnlo-FjyXNj2wjBVmjBpSUY7r7BHXc9Ajh4UO8c8-FSQkQQvZDO8oIw7CpP5AM5YKZ_C1LO-LLMIzBjrpj0h1jFUIp0Z9KK6Pou1sSvpsOCST30Co8Vd51WnobS/s1600/download+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_CaiTPGTVJR2A5G7ZzFnlo-FjyXNj2wjBVmjBpSUY7r7BHXc9Ajh4UO8c8-FSQkQQvZDO8oIw7CpP5AM5YKZ_C1LO-LLMIzBjrpj0h1jFUIp0Z9KK6Pou1sSvpsOCST30Co8Vd51WnobS/s1600/download+(1).jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
That said, testing continuity with a Fluke 87V at an electronics workbench can be quite annoying, reason why I decided to lower its volume a little using a simple, quick and reversible method.<br />
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Adding a 4.7k Ohm resistor in series with the buzzer will do the trick, setting your volume at a pleasant level.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOOh6oQt6bf85sqD_aProyDn28ZiE4mZvsL6URZNkQNi5mpChnqBf-FukfFrSS8Yx6MHwvDG687ARJ-d8iADxAzCY8cRG5eA_QM1sbIOUTAJxsEtrVIrNG3l7vuLx8-UPKDW3WgweZY8M/s1600/download.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGOOh6oQt6bf85sqD_aProyDn28ZiE4mZvsL6URZNkQNi5mpChnqBf-FukfFrSS8Yx6MHwvDG687ARJ-d8iADxAzCY8cRG5eA_QM1sbIOUTAJxsEtrVIrNG3l7vuLx8-UPKDW3WgweZY8M/s1600/download.jpg" /></a></div>
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Open your DMM and this is what you will find: The piezo buzzer contacts the board with springs to these pads shown here:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA9fk_ak5fiIDoOh1V1s3hlUKDpBe_n6bPpZjJeka72CDIx5ENk1CDP6KtDmii6uCAaTD8yRMC6rjYkj_ZnXPoSleIjL5PK05OVmznwYvAh1CcYlqYcjymVNUtNIMl1puX6L_PwgiT-nif/s1600/IMG_3113%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA9fk_ak5fiIDoOh1V1s3hlUKDpBe_n6bPpZjJeka72CDIx5ENk1CDP6KtDmii6uCAaTD8yRMC6rjYkj_ZnXPoSleIjL5PK05OVmznwYvAh1CcYlqYcjymVNUtNIMl1puX6L_PwgiT-nif/s1600/IMG_3113%5B1%5D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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What you will see now is the back cover, where the buzzer lives. The two springs at the bottom are (-) and the one at the top is (+).<br />
Just fold the leg of your resistor around the (+) spring and raise the other leg RIGHT ON TOP of the spring like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZWuFxQ_fUV_9Osek-PT3KE1Kt6dSLHJG1Hi-mvuU9DH25HdjU8r0gj_6yb2tv52gzzf3GOxLsvSgEr3m2jE-K2S5RNRiQG7Lxqh49iZurXEQYOowWE30kpQxMo-MP_e8_3XlvfmiepSn/s1600/IMG_3117%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivZWuFxQ_fUV_9Osek-PT3KE1Kt6dSLHJG1Hi-mvuU9DH25HdjU8r0gj_6yb2tv52gzzf3GOxLsvSgEr3m2jE-K2S5RNRiQG7Lxqh49iZurXEQYOowWE30kpQxMo-MP_e8_3XlvfmiepSn/s1600/IMG_3117%5B1%5D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then isolate both the resistor AND the spring with tape. I used Kapton tape as seen here:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfcZPU320IxkC8AFSHfAUYv-5SoPPgayi93krXKvr1zPYvUW3r3focQTFOMRlfgdVfrt7O8NudbRv8RvapzoRpoOFgh7dzHLxFEoLrVdAYeklxWuqijFxb98_ouBJVG3RZby5ynnUV8L1m/s1600/IMG_3111%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfcZPU320IxkC8AFSHfAUYv-5SoPPgayi93krXKvr1zPYvUW3r3focQTFOMRlfgdVfrt7O8NudbRv8RvapzoRpoOFgh7dzHLxFEoLrVdAYeklxWuqijFxb98_ouBJVG3RZby5ynnUV8L1m/s1600/IMG_3111%5B1%5D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Make your final adjustments so the resistor led lays right on top of the little spring. This leg will make final contact with the pad on the main board of your DMM.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOOnGES0AqGHuZN_-tsnnq5DH_l-5umDYmlK9vpWSiG3OISBy53YOUz4RNtezywbahMb1oZ_Pe4tWzyHhssIExoH5FdB0YaZH6bKneBWFxrpv-mZJ1qVu0vknqKSwgUw8tvnVtGXl9rfDd/s1600/IMG_3112%5B1%5D.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOOnGES0AqGHuZN_-tsnnq5DH_l-5umDYmlK9vpWSiG3OISBy53YOUz4RNtezywbahMb1oZ_Pe4tWzyHhssIExoH5FdB0YaZH6bKneBWFxrpv-mZJ1qVu0vknqKSwgUw8tvnVtGXl9rfDd/s1600/IMG_3112%5B1%5D.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Add another tape to on top of the larger portion of the resistor leg and leave the tip uncovered.<br />
<br />
Close the cover gently and test your meter.<br />
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Done! If you are fast with your screwdriver, this literally takes two minutes. But take your time...<br />
Best of all, this is 100% reversible, with no permanent modifications to your DMM.<br />
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<b>Note: </b><i>You may have noticed that some photos show 10K resistor while other photos show 4.7K. That's because I started with 10K but then realized volume was too low. 4.7K seems to be perfect for my needs.</i>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-19342260693512355882014-03-28T19:31:00.003-03:002014-04-13T22:03:01.151-03:00Quick LED tester for your Protoshield<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsIUglkcJ9XFdYE2wuMM-Fw7FdTAkVOzr_V_A1zpYqcyVyOo1ATfCG9k-VfcWwxT_SSffWTGzfbte51acTY8Xm_kfpI_bp9Pif77ZEowObhp8-w2LIikfGkW88nLAcs3cERC230GtvVX79/s1600/IMG_0996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsIUglkcJ9XFdYE2wuMM-Fw7FdTAkVOzr_V_A1zpYqcyVyOo1ATfCG9k-VfcWwxT_SSffWTGzfbte51acTY8Xm_kfpI_bp9Pif77ZEowObhp8-w2LIikfGkW88nLAcs3cERC230GtvVX79/s1600/IMG_0996.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h2>
Why build this project:</h2>
<br />
1) Because it's an LED tester on your proto shield that doesn't mind orientation. Ideal for quickly testing a suspicious LED or checking the color on a transparent LED.<br />
<span style="color: #999999;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: #999999;">2) Arduino independent, it's based in the 555 bi-polar LED driver, so it doesn't interfere with any of your Arduino pins or code.</span><br />
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3) Because it's easy and affordable way of learning how a 555 works.<br />
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<h2>
How to build this project:</h2>
It goes like this:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhpo-ak7GMP9flUTns4AwpArctyA5Q8T8MFwweEQCIwtf7-1fg8ZsH7x8ILrkXCZLVxjn4h_AuLyhBEYtCQV_YDwxvtIQhafs9_FRlzuU9t4nmGWaJbv6CcGR4iw50luGrTZD9wZ77cnw/s1600/BiPolarLED-Driver.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkhpo-ak7GMP9flUTns4AwpArctyA5Q8T8MFwweEQCIwtf7-1fg8ZsH7x8ILrkXCZLVxjn4h_AuLyhBEYtCQV_YDwxvtIQhafs9_FRlzuU9t4nmGWaJbv6CcGR4iw50luGrTZD9wZ77cnw/s1600/BiPolarLED-Driver.gif" /></a></div>
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<h3>
<span style="color: #ffd966;">
Use this build as a learning experience on the 555!</span></h3>
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<h3>
What happens at the LED side?</h3>
<div>
Look at the diagram above. Let's imagine you have two LEDs, one GREEN, one RED connected just as above. Commonly referred to as Vcc, the supply voltage can range between 5V and 15V. In this example, we will use 9V.<br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">1) Simply put, we are connecting the left leg of the LED to the output pin (3), which oscillates between 0V and the supply voltage (Well, actually the supply voltage minus 1.7V so it's around 7.3V in this case. Refer to the 555 timer <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/555_timer_IC">wikipedia </a>article for details.)</span><br />
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2) The other leg of your LED (the one on the right) is connected to the resistor divider, which divides the 9V. So only 4.5V are present at that leg.<br />
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<span style="color: #999999;">3) As a consequence of step 2 above, when pin (3) his HIGH, your LED sees a potential difference of 4.5V, and when (3) is LOW, it sees a potential difference of -4.5V and BAM! That's why the current alternates in both directions allowing you to place LEDs in any orientation.</span><br />
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<u>Note</u>: Since I usually feed my Arduinos with 12V, I replaced the two 220 Ohm resistors for 290 Ohm in order to reduce the power consumption of the resistor divider to less than 1/4W. This impacts consumption but the voltage divider still divides to 4.5V.<br />
<h3>
<br />OK, got it. Now, what happens at the capacitor/resistor side?</h3>
<br />
1) The combination of the Cap and the resistor produces a delayed charge and discharge of the capacitor. The very same output pin (3) we use to drive the LED is used here to both charge the capacitor when output is HIGH and discharge it when the output is LOW.<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #999999;">2) Both inputs of the 555 Trigger (Pin2) and Threshold (Pin 6) are shorted together, which leaves us with a single input that reads the voltage at the capacitor.</span><br />
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3) Remeber that in this example we are feeding the circuit with 9V. Whenever the input reads below 3V from the capacitor, it will turn the output HIGH, turning the green LED ON. At the same time, the capacitor begins to charge, slowly rising the voltage at the input pin (2 and 6).<br />
<br />
<span style="color: #999999;">4) As soon as this rising voltage gets above 6V, it will reset the 555, setting the output to LOW which activates the red LED, and at the same time it begins to discharge the capacitor, which will eventually get to below 3V, leaving us at step 3 again.</span><br />
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<h3>
So, why are these boundaries at 3 and 6 volts?</h3>
<br />
<span style="color: #999999;">Because I used 9V as an example for feeding the circuit. 3V and 6V are 1/3 and 2/3 of 9V respectively.</span><br />
<span style="color: #999999;">If I had used 12V to feed my circuit, boundaries would have been 4V and 8V respectively because it's always 1/3 and 2/3 of the supplied voltage.</span><br />
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<h3>
Can I make them blink quicker or slower?</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnCTBcRYJFEhC2yW0bi6dyeH58Wd89IJcZsIP-FuUN3xBKysYRs7VhOi3EX7RYDydXGy31BBc8mpcIci33FO6hgWArxY3UR6-oYUk-nEou9dDEogFKdP8mbFx50YOLESM1i9R_Mi8wd3Tj/s1600/Capture.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnCTBcRYJFEhC2yW0bi6dyeH58Wd89IJcZsIP-FuUN3xBKysYRs7VhOi3EX7RYDydXGy31BBc8mpcIci33FO6hgWArxY3UR6-oYUk-nEou9dDEogFKdP8mbFx50YOLESM1i9R_Mi8wd3Tj/s1600/Capture.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Of course you can. Check out these great resources:<br />
<br />
1.- <b>HyperPhysics at Georgia State University</b> - <a href="http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/electric/capchg.html">A simple tool for calculating</a> time to charge/discharge your capacitor.<br />
2.- Wikipedia - <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RC_time_constant">RC time constant</a><br />
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Top view:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg43Cozf0qev1r2iR6yuEn7CEWTyl1J2VK933avmeY_ekqH7DssiYd0mduuxPUNhu-Yc9LIdc1-ONBAQBXlF4MjxAzbpTIjOIIjjzCPNJet5WNaAhpTmOosmcvogzfaXsVjPbwkiG4iNR47/s1600/IMG_0997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg43Cozf0qev1r2iR6yuEn7CEWTyl1J2VK933avmeY_ekqH7DssiYd0mduuxPUNhu-Yc9LIdc1-ONBAQBXlF4MjxAzbpTIjOIIjjzCPNJet5WNaAhpTmOosmcvogzfaXsVjPbwkiG4iNR47/s1600/IMG_0997.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XTU5brOnPRhBPFDPJomRIzLW0xr-qqAxExGIvmCWq4h_k_P8EmbOfvGizD7iKk3kIeW2uhaydZz_ona8exJukgk8qHtOD9gQA4vuLewdf6WwsOzTqGGlLDtFrCnFLROauwBdSSJ2jTG8/s1600/IMG_0995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-XTU5brOnPRhBPFDPJomRIzLW0xr-qqAxExGIvmCWq4h_k_P8EmbOfvGizD7iKk3kIeW2uhaydZz_ona8exJukgk8qHtOD9gQA4vuLewdf6WwsOzTqGGlLDtFrCnFLROauwBdSSJ2jTG8/s1600/IMG_0995.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Bottom view:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN2L2rDK9Qn2WHLo-gonid2Ql_7tDKdavGeRMKov1wYFsE2pTzG8vI92aM2bZkLgsiMfMskMAeid7puu3gqO5A8ucrtdrRMOFGddCgrMyosL3BL-ExnWtolf1DSSo4aT07m0Wnmla84hBd/s1600/IMG_0998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN2L2rDK9Qn2WHLo-gonid2Ql_7tDKdavGeRMKov1wYFsE2pTzG8vI92aM2bZkLgsiMfMskMAeid7puu3gqO5A8ucrtdrRMOFGddCgrMyosL3BL-ExnWtolf1DSSo4aT07m0Wnmla84hBd/s1600/IMG_0998.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h2>
Can I see it working? </h2>
<br />
Yes, you can. Check the video I made for you:<br />
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<object class="BLOGGER-youtube-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://i1.ytimg.com/vi/BzvOnJXZ_Zs/0.jpg" height="266" width="320"><param name="movie" value="https://www.youtube.com/v/BzvOnJXZ_Zs?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/v/BzvOnJXZ_Zs?version=3&f=user_uploads&c=google-webdrive-0&app=youtube_gdata" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
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<br />
Finally, if you want to see some of my other mods for the Proto Shield, click <a href="http://rodelectronics.blogspot.com/2011/11/protoshield-mods.html">here</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-33962706054252095862014-02-28T14:33:00.000-03:002014-04-25T10:01:25.751-03:00Moody Tubes - Vacuum tubes to set your mood!<h2>
</h2>
<h3>
This is an ornament made of old vacuum tubes and some basic electronics including LEDs, Arduino and resistors.</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_q2GzcxX-ZA2tclcsr8ZNFd_Ta-7RhRkpVzZs1Saxy2MCYxWn4VQ_O7lZydytrIw7WoeoYvx3VH_ie-kGThMze-mnrqfUsGoI1yxKdX43W3lapsdyL4gOu066XEeUgzUgNrfbfn9-RyAf/s1600/IMG_3221.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_q2GzcxX-ZA2tclcsr8ZNFd_Ta-7RhRkpVzZs1Saxy2MCYxWn4VQ_O7lZydytrIw7WoeoYvx3VH_ie-kGThMze-mnrqfUsGoI1yxKdX43W3lapsdyL4gOu066XEeUgzUgNrfbfn9-RyAf/s1600/IMG_3221.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-6D0ijxyrPu_GGaPrSFJGFPNMET0L_wzlLHW_HdXl3WAl4NCOdBghpJ3IpIBF_WPZXSgfzkCF00zvdcgNrTtvoXlncQ8LHAkdngJYkGkWBeJKNSurKCKO_Jc1OE8fIpVlff17_UYYjEKc/s1600/IMG_3220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-6D0ijxyrPu_GGaPrSFJGFPNMET0L_wzlLHW_HdXl3WAl4NCOdBghpJ3IpIBF_WPZXSgfzkCF00zvdcgNrTtvoXlncQ8LHAkdngJYkGkWBeJKNSurKCKO_Jc1OE8fIpVlff17_UYYjEKc/s1600/IMG_3220.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdCqZu1NE0MUyvp1uFjY7jJYxaotJvCKb_vda6A7WR_Yv4rmYtCJbh1mf6yw3aHJuylPdbNEyDacp_cYb-wvETH4nmm8jxnLspK-S32uLG_rfj4HWCl9NHbFdC1WSFZ9s_IrHwrNpCfypc/s1600/IMG_3223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdCqZu1NE0MUyvp1uFjY7jJYxaotJvCKb_vda6A7WR_Yv4rmYtCJbh1mf6yw3aHJuylPdbNEyDacp_cYb-wvETH4nmm8jxnLspK-S32uLG_rfj4HWCl9NHbFdC1WSFZ9s_IrHwrNpCfypc/s1600/IMG_3223.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7gK9zZAC-Mv5_d-HDXVe8l2xUy0J0uTxfyZqbvzzvUJJQYKdIh0G17EKpxhpe7tKll9Li-24PdtMUqixCK5yCNF3IaO8yVrVLRKDruAxaa0ADD6fV8FsmXg2i-OE_Fnm9VTUm5aGFS75M/s1600/IMG_3213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7gK9zZAC-Mv5_d-HDXVe8l2xUy0J0uTxfyZqbvzzvUJJQYKdIh0G17EKpxhpe7tKll9Li-24PdtMUqixCK5yCNF3IaO8yVrVLRKDruAxaa0ADD6fV8FsmXg2i-OE_Fnm9VTUm5aGFS75M/s1600/IMG_3213.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Features:</h3>
- Three tubes which slowly change colors.<br />
- Integrated battery meter. Right after power up, it measures its own battery level and shows the level by graduating one of the tubes from Green(full) to Red(needs recharging). If at any point battery goes below threshold levels, it will go into "blink-red" mode and will refuse to do its coloring thing.<br />
- Potentiometer for manual adjustments.<br />
- A battery. I used a Lipo 11.1, 2500mAh battery which was almost gone for trash because it couldn't serve my airplanes anymore.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABDmYaIll8PlN2Szvf2bzflDCbdzN-TKPUMOFbDnFS9ANay0q5YkeQu9OQGiHmh18-dIB4jqDW7ltN7uhCQpBoL627cHyS2BwJ4tuRJGi6Xb8EzO95gnKFSR3MECnRZZzAs2KBcg4LRXO/s1600/IMG_3214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiABDmYaIll8PlN2Szvf2bzflDCbdzN-TKPUMOFbDnFS9ANay0q5YkeQu9OQGiHmh18-dIB4jqDW7ltN7uhCQpBoL627cHyS2BwJ4tuRJGi6Xb8EzO95gnKFSR3MECnRZZzAs2KBcg4LRXO/s1600/IMG_3214.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Materials required:</h3>
- A suitable box<br />
- Vacuum tubes (don't need to be in working condition, just need to look pretty)<br />
- RGB LEDs (One per tube)<br />
- 330ohm resistors (15 of them or a resistor array as I used)<br />
- Your favorite micro-controller (I went for an ATMEL Atmega 328).<br />
- A 5v regulator<br />
- A potentiometer (may be even buttons or an IR sensor)<br />
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<h3>
Plan for it</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGD51iTzuqlSgckkJgH5_AdkpEPmfGK1p21oumk1WtbcmZoJPPJjIXPhVMEYyiGdpsL1ippXsTvLzvK0OlXsXeb9ODctIQN3dQF87a3zTjX-j_mMD6GiUmkYOF1bN7nrMjFZWrqtDC91mi/s1600/moodytubes.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGD51iTzuqlSgckkJgH5_AdkpEPmfGK1p21oumk1WtbcmZoJPPJjIXPhVMEYyiGdpsL1ippXsTvLzvK0OlXsXeb9ODctIQN3dQF87a3zTjX-j_mMD6GiUmkYOF1bN7nrMjFZWrqtDC91mi/s1600/moodytubes.PNG" height="265" width="320" /></a></div>
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<h3>
Assemble the hardware. </h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifzxnFfYmKPzBQw5b1K8qm10YLtTVUCXzeWVz3UkTZ5aGpDFOTNc5cCx3oaooLu3fB6Irn1W69KHe4op6hltoKlhCS0PivjnVmyfiRX1OipDtQc5O8c4uok635uc0XW4nqPVsPXimoxOUb/s1600/IMG_3224.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifzxnFfYmKPzBQw5b1K8qm10YLtTVUCXzeWVz3UkTZ5aGpDFOTNc5cCx3oaooLu3fB6Irn1W69KHe4op6hltoKlhCS0PivjnVmyfiRX1OipDtQc5O8c4uok635uc0XW4nqPVsPXimoxOUb/s1600/IMG_3224.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Leds are hot glued underneath the tubes:<br />
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<br />
Consider from my design that the three LEDs are in parallel, which means they show the exact same color at all times. The only one that's different is the center one, where I added an orange led for a cleaner orange tone.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiaIOMmBBP93R4VZ6jBvh9uWbasuIcrA9jpSfiTE8h1b_h7wFX6kICfWjZlwDRaC1ZnXbqjDCbYmV7OGEl2iiz-C2hv5QgtpFukmgm8sUbawLkcyQ_puYYEkOpT8j1kvoMbE9Fz2zUr3QA/s1600/IMG_3230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiaIOMmBBP93R4VZ6jBvh9uWbasuIcrA9jpSfiTE8h1b_h7wFX6kICfWjZlwDRaC1ZnXbqjDCbYmV7OGEl2iiz-C2hv5QgtpFukmgm8sUbawLkcyQ_puYYEkOpT8j1kvoMbE9Fz2zUr3QA/s1600/IMG_3230.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
Also consider that LEDs can be turned ON or OFF independently, reason why instead of a common ground connection they go to digital output pins. This also means that to power up each LED you need to bring that ground pin to LOW.<br />
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Let's take a closer look at the power regulator:<br />
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<h3>
Pick your colors.</h3>
I wrote some code to manually change each color so I could visualize the mix I liked the best, and wrote those values down.<br />
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<br />Enjoy your relaxing toy.</h3>
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Use the potentiometer to increase or decrease the speed at which colors change. I went from somewhat fast all the way down to super-super slow. It will take several minutes to change to the next color. This is for a more realistic approach.<br />
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<h3>
Arduino Code</h3>
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<i><span style="color: #999999;"><br />// PIN DEFINITION<br />int redPin = 9;<br />int greenPin = 10;<br />int bluePin = 11;<br />int orangePin = 6;<br />int tubesmaPin =5;<br />int tubelarPin = 4;<br />int tubemedPin = 3;<br />int potPin = A2;<br />int buttonPin = 7;<br />int battPin = A1;<br />// OTHER VARIABLES<br />int maxbattery = 283; // reading at which the battery is at 12.3V, which we consider full capaciity.<br />int minbattery = 244; // reading at which the battery is at 10.8V, level at which we will consider the battery needs urgent recharging.<br />int boot_check = 1;<br />long previousMillis = 0; // will store last time LED was updated<br />int redvalue = 0; // Stores the current value of the color<br />int greenvalue = 0;<br />int bluevalue = 0;<br />int orangevalue = 0;<br />int potenciometro;<br />int transitfinished =0;<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void setup()<br />{<br /> Serial.begin(9600);<br /> pinMode(redPin, OUTPUT);<br /> pinMode(greenPin, OUTPUT);<br /> pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT); <br /> pinMode(orangePin, OUTPUT); <br /> pinMode(tubesmaPin, OUTPUT);<br /> pinMode(tubelarPin, OUTPUT);<br /> pinMode(tubemedPin, OUTPUT);<br /> pinMode(potPin, INPUT);<br /> pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT); <br /> shutdown_tubes(); <br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void loop()<br />{<br /> go_automatic();<br /> //check_voltage();<br /> //while(digitalRead(buttonPin)) { go_manual(); }<br /> //show_dead_battery();<br /> //delay(1000); // delay after the press of the button<br /> //while (digitalRead(buttonPin)){ go_automatic();}<br /> //delay(1000);<br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />/*<br />System health functions<br />*/<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void check_voltage() // blinks one tube with the status of the battery: Green = 12.4v, Red is below 11.1v and needs recharging<br />{<br /> int battvalue = 0; // stores the reading on the battery<br /> battvalue = analogRead(battPin);<br /> battvalue = map(battvalue,minbattery,maxbattery,0,255);<br /> if (battvalue<0) battvalue = 0;<br /> if (battvalue>255) battvalue = 255;<br /> Serial.print("battvalue:");<br /> Serial.println(battvalue); <br /> if (battvalue<1) show_dead_battery();<br /> if (boot_check == 1) //Does this only once when booting.<br /> {<br /> shutdown_tubes();<br /> // green = full, red = depleted.<br /> setColor(255-battvalue,battvalue,0,0);<br /> digitalWrite(tubesmaPin,LOW); // Activates the small tube<br /> delay(2000);<br /> digitalWrite(tubesmaPin,HIGH); // Shuts the tube down<br /> delay(500);<br /> setColor(0,0,0,0);<br /> boot_check = 0;<br /> }<br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void show_dead_battery() // Breathes red tube FOR EVER, nothing else.<br />{<br /> shutdown_tubes(); // Shuts all the tubes down<br /> setColor(0,0,0,0);<br /> digitalWrite(tubesmaPin,LOW); // Activates the small tube by bringing the cathode LOW.<br /> int destination = 255;<br /> while(1)<br /> {<br /> if (redvalue==0) destination = 255;<br /> transit_color(3,destination,0,0,0);<br /> if (redvalue==255) destination = 0;<br /> }<br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />/*<br />Functions involving LED activity<br />*/<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void setColor(int red, int green, int blue, int orange)<br />{<br /> analogWrite(redPin, red);<br /> analogWrite(greenPin, green);<br /> analogWrite(bluePin, blue); <br /> analogWrite(orangePin, orange);<br /> // let's reflect the current values in the variables<br /> redvalue=red;<br /> greenvalue=green;<br /> bluevalue=blue;<br /> orangevalue=orange;<br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void transit_color(int transitspeed, int red, int green, int blue, int orange)<br />{<br /> unsigned long currentMillis = millis();<br /> if((currentMillis - previousMillis) > transitspeed) //If transitspeed = 12 implies approx 3 sec in raising a led from 0 to 255<br /> {<br /> // save the last time I adjusted the LEDs<br /> previousMillis = currentMillis; <br /> if (redvalue<red) redvalue++;<br /> if (redvalue>red) redvalue--;<br /> if (greenvalue<green) greenvalue++;<br /> if (greenvalue>green) greenvalue--;<br /> if (bluevalue<blue) bluevalue++;<br /> if (bluevalue>blue) bluevalue--;<br /> if (orangevalue<orange) orangevalue++;<br /> if (orangevalue>orange) orangevalue--;<br /> setColor(redvalue,greenvalue,bluevalue,orangevalue);<br /> if (redvalue==red && greenvalue==green && bluevalue==blue && orangevalue==orange) transitfinished = 1;<br /> }<br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void shutdown_tubes() // Shuts the tubes to dark by raising the cathode to high so no current flows regardles of the RGB pins<br />{<br /> digitalWrite(tubesmaPin,HIGH);<br /> digitalWrite(tubemedPin,HIGH);<br /> digitalWrite(tubelarPin,HIGH);<br /> setColor(0,0,0,0);<br />}<br />/*<br />Blinking and Color Routines<br />*/<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void go_automatic()<br />{<br /> breathe(255,0,140,0);<br /> breathe(0,255,160,0);<br /> breathe(255,30,0,255);<br /> breathe(150,10,255,0);<br /> breathe(0,0,255,0);<br /> breathe(0,0,0,255);<br /> breathe(0,0,255,255);<br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void go_manual()<br />{<br /> while(digitalRead(buttonPin))<br /> {<br /> potenciometro = analogRead(potPin);<br /> redvalue = map(potenciometro, 0, 1023, 0, 255);<br /> Serial.print("red:");<br /> Serial.println(redvalue);<br /> setColor(redvalue, greenvalue, bluevalue, orangevalue); <br /> }<br /> delay(500);<br /> while(digitalRead(buttonPin))<br /> {<br /> potenciometro = analogRead(potPin);<br /> greenvalue = map(potenciometro, 0, 1023, 0, 255);<br /> Serial.print("green:");<br /> Serial.println(greenvalue);<br /> setColor(redvalue, greenvalue, bluevalue, orangevalue); <br /> } <br /> delay(500);<br /> while(digitalRead(buttonPin))<br /> {<br /> potenciometro = analogRead(potPin);<br /> bluevalue = map(potenciometro, 0, 1023, 0, 255);<br /> Serial.print("blue:");<br /> Serial.println(bluevalue);<br /> setColor(redvalue, greenvalue, bluevalue, orangevalue); <br /> }<br /> delay(500);<br /> while(digitalRead(buttonPin))<br /> {<br /> potenciometro = analogRead(potPin);<br /> orangevalue = map(potenciometro, 0, 1023, 0, 255);<br /> Serial.print("orange:");<br /> Serial.println(orangevalue);<br /> setColor(redvalue, greenvalue, bluevalue, orangevalue); <br /> }<br /> delay(500);<br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________<br />void breathe(int red, int green, int blue, int orange)<br />{<br /> transitfinished=0;<br /> while (transitfinished==0)<br /> {<br /> potenciometro = analogRead(potPin);<br /> potenciometro = map(potenciometro,0,1023,6000,10); // Sets the transition speed with the potentiometer<br /> transit_color(potenciometro,red,green,blue,orange);<br /> check_voltage();<br /> digitalWrite(tubesmaPin,LOW);<br /> digitalWrite(tubemedPin,LOW);<br /> digitalWrite(tubelarPin,LOW);<br /> }<br />}<br />// __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________</span></i>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-42228720053879335962013-11-29T15:49:00.000-03:002014-04-24T20:09:09.799-03:00How to set up a EE lab / Hobby workbench at home<b><span style="font-size: large;">5 simple tips for a removable hobby bench.</span></b><br />
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Space inside the house is not something many of us have these days.<br />
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The following are some recommendations on how to transform a space in your apartment into an electronics hobby bench.<br />
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">1) Tip#1: Extendable dining table.</span></b><br />
Not a must, but a very nice to have.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>2) Tip#2: Good lighting.</b> </span><br />
Change the bulbs on your ceiling so it is at the level you need. Be creative and build your own ceiling lamp to balance beauty with functionality. Or buy something that will illuminate your bench accordingly.<br />
You can also add a desk lamp such as this:<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>3) Tip#3: Yoga mat, and even better: ESD mat.</b></span><br />
This is a must. This not for relaxing (your hobby is actually for that).<br />
It's to put over the table. It is non-conductive and it will not develop static electricity either.<br />
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It will accomplish the following:<br />
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- It clearly defines your working area. Easy to trim with scissors to the dimensions you like according to your own preference and arm length.<br />
- It prevents small parts and screws from bouncing off the table and thus it will save you hours and hours of looking for them. Small screws always end up in the most unimaginable places when they bounce off the table, and you know it. Do the test and see how well this mat will absorb shock from falling parts.<br />
- Provides comfort and warm and soft feeling for your arms.<br />
- It will protect your dining table from scratches.<br />
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- It provides a cushioned area for your projects or to-be-repaired objects without scratching or damaging them (imagine disassembling an iphone on top of this versus the wooden table).<br />
- It allows you to rapidly clean up your working area. Just lift it and empty thousands of cable insulator and bits of solder and sweat and blood directly on your trashcan! All in one single motion.<br />
- It will eventually get stains and will melt when accidentally aiming your rework station or hot glue gun or soldering iron. You can always get a brand new one for a few dollars.<br />
- And it's easy to fold or roll when not in use.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>4) Tip#4: Get the basics</b></span><br />
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Depending on the nature of your hobby, your mileage may vary.<br />
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To me the essentials are:<br />
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- A soldering station.<br />
Also solder wick and a good solder pump.<br />
- A third hand and a Panavise.<br />
- Tools. To your preference. <a href="http://makezine.com/2011/10/04/collins-lab-electronics-tools/">Check for Collin's Lab: Electronics Tools</a><br />
- Build an ATX power supply (for sense of accomplishment and endless use of 12V, 5V and 3.3V power with short protection and temp auto-shutdown). I like <a href="https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fjumperone.com%2F2011%2F06%2Fatx-power-supply-tutorial%2F&ei=9RhLUr2GAZS4yAG56YDACw&usg=AFQjCNHfyo3qRSMKqC3SAdkybLVRELUjVQ&sig2=PuacBF3u7HlXsg9SG_0FXA&bvm=bv.53371865,d.aWc">Jumper One ATX power supply.</a> Add variable voltage capability with an LM317 <a href="http://jumperone.com/2011/08/lm317-adjustable-psu/">Another one from JumperOne</a>.<br />
- A decent multi-meter. No need to go Fluke. Just nothing below $40 and you'll do fine.<br />
- An oscilloscope. (You won't need it for general hobby use but eventually it will become helpful).<br />
- A small table-top trashcan to toss your small bits of unwanted material.<br />
- A digital microscope on the cheap: It's not easy to read chip labels or inspect soldering with your bare eyes. Get a manual focusing webcam and use it as a microscope (8 bucks).<br />
- A rework station. For melting hot glue, shrinking heat-shrink tubing and yeah, to rework stuff.<br />
- Isopropyl Alcohol, Q-tips for cleaning. I use it all the time.<br />
- Small parts plastic organizer for putting in screws of the things you disassemble.<br />
- A separate box for unfinished projects and less-used parts, which reminds me of..... step 5:<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>5) Tip #5: 5S your place.</b></span><br />
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Seriously. This is by far the most important piece of my advice. If you are not a 5S kind of person, become one. This is vital to be able to enable and disable your lab at will.<br />
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Don't know what I'm talking about? 5S describes how to organize a work space for efficiency and effectiveness by identifying and storing the items used, maintaining the area and items, and sustaining the new order. <a href="http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/what-is-5s-in-six-sigma.html" target="_blank">Read More</a><br />
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This means: Get toolboxes, drawers, stackable parts bins. Label and outline tool placement. <b>A place for everything and everything in its place</b>. Measure of success is to be able to put your lab together in 15 minutes and put it all out in 45 minutes (it takes longer to store it out because you end up with new stuff to find a place for, cleaning duties and you are generally more tired and slow). Improve until you succeed.<br />
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<h2>
B) Bonus: Take it one step further</h2>
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You are most likely skilled at DIY already, so grab your tools and build your own shelf, custom made to your own needs just like this wooden shelf for the Power Supply, scope and multi-meter:<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-70659610994380873582013-10-07T14:16:00.004-03:002013-11-11T20:06:30.292-03:00Smartphone Signal Generator<b>How to build a small amplifier for your smartphone signal generator</b><br />
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You can find plenty of signal generating software for both Android and iOS devices.</div>
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Here's an example of Audio Tool for iPhone and iPod Touch. They obviously range between 20Hz and 20KHz (human audible range) because audio output of these devices is meant for music:<br />
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However, the voltage ranges of operation are pretty low.</div>
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Building a small amplifier for your phone:</div>
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I started out from Amanda Ghassaei's <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Waveform-Generator/" target="_blank">Arduino Waveform Generator</a>.</div>
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Since the function generation piece of her circuit will be entirely replaced by the iPhone, I just built the OpAmp piece as follows:</div>
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I used alternative parts to replace some of these suggested components, starting by the OpAmp, then following for the 22K instead of 20K resistor, and 25v capacitors instead of 50v. Feel free to use slightly different components. </div>
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Prototype:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-xeP3svruEY2L6gZhy5yPZXNHMrLUc3YQlbS7rXHastEaBLQnDuuwNtA5nj_bQAcaPEFEJXqrw6jGPllx82PvddtVL0JrVWU9FaYgXOGKn-yaI7vLp8QFYiT0baQKXEGPggZ2doLZ99L/s1600/IMG_0123.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_-xeP3svruEY2L6gZhy5yPZXNHMrLUc3YQlbS7rXHastEaBLQnDuuwNtA5nj_bQAcaPEFEJXqrw6jGPllx82PvddtVL0JrVWU9FaYgXOGKn-yaI7vLp8QFYiT0baQKXEGPggZ2doLZ99L/s320/IMG_0123.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Building process: Note how the SMD chip levitates on top of the board. I chose pins for easy grabbing with alligator clips or scope hooks.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepd4htftsWzBswgUspFq5sH2LcR9wQS8GJ8hq4m4lwHe1omnNo07nFSUxAF0p6yZlxtHwfCxxYclsi6WZi-KJ6jc4KNn56tFgoh7AVe0XS18LmDF9cTu5WjgHKopTIVT9AVcDtYDnoW_Q/s1600/IMG_0124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjepd4htftsWzBswgUspFq5sH2LcR9wQS8GJ8hq4m4lwHe1omnNo07nFSUxAF0p6yZlxtHwfCxxYclsi6WZi-KJ6jc4KNn56tFgoh7AVe0XS18LmDF9cTu5WjgHKopTIVT9AVcDtYDnoW_Q/s320/IMG_0124.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And the finished product:</div>
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The two contacts at the top are the power in connectors.<br />
The other two at the bottom are the signal Out terminals for your part or your scope or both.<br />
The signal is fed from the Smartphone via the cable at the side. The triple white wire goes to the potentiometer. </div>
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Done!</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-68493337385714083842013-08-01T11:01:00.000-04:002015-09-26T12:02:24.495-03:00Battery powered Atari 8-bit<h3>
Background:</h3>
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You may have read my post about how to <a href="http://rodelectronics.blogspot.com/2012/12/atari-xf-551-power-dc-supply-mod.html" target="_blank">power an Atari diskette drive with a switching power supply</a>.<br />
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You may have noticed that I'm not a big fan of heavy, large Atari power bricks.<br />
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And don't get me wrong: they are beautiful designs, reliable, powerful, and Atari branded. However, in modern days where an 8-bit is not your primary computer for getting things done, these bricks make it unappealing to get your vintage gear running every once in a while.<br />
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The objective of this easy project is to be able to pull your Atari from an UV-free storage and hook it up to your TV allowing quick play using a SIO2SD interface.<br />
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So here it goes: A battery powered 8-bit (With the battery inside the case).</h3>
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Materials needed:</h3>
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- An Atari 8-bit computer willing to be modded in the guts. (I've used a spare 65XE since I would never mod an 800XL in any way).<br />
- A battery. Lithium Polymer 11.1v / 3-cell, 1800mAh and above.<br />
- A switching voltage regulator aka DC to DC converter: I used a 5v OKI-78SR series from Murata Power Solutions.<br />
- Decent soldering skills, a soldering station and powerful de-soldering pump.<br />
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Do some research first, ask yourself some questions:</h3>
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Q: Can an Atari be battery powered for a decent amount of time?<br />
A: Atari power bricks supply a maximum of 1.5A, if you measure the actual consumption at 5V it goes around 450mA which is not hard for a LiPo 12V battery to handle.<br />
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Q: How long will the battery last?<br />
Once using a regulator, it draws only 250mA from your battery, giving you a theoretical life of 4 hours of continuous play on a 2100mAh battery. I'm fine with 1 or 2 hours and this easily doubles that!<br />
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Q: Will a battery fit inside the case?<br />
A: There's only one way to figure it out: Crack your machine open and see what fits in. The 65XE has quite a roomy case for this mod. I'd say it actually fits two batteries.<br />
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Q: Should I use a linear regulator or switching regulator?<br />
A: The problem with linear regulators such as the LM7805 is that you waste too much energy in heat and in this case it will get fairly warm, which will force you to add a heat dissipation on a tight space. The switching regulator is far more efficient and not noisy enough to disturb the functionality on your Atari. Audio comes out fairly clean with these.<br />
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The design:</h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtvDPEdSI1DpFfcEMxtAcnKfvHgvxEaIC5kd-oOEN7nOm0fwcNB2Sb5WuhZ_uKNdjF8fsFuuLfAQMxoU_i67OjTJiV_cFPR1Ytg101AXUwUQ22IfFxMs2lDw91LG7XO07EAStmFssMVYmF/s1600/Capture.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtvDPEdSI1DpFfcEMxtAcnKfvHgvxEaIC5kd-oOEN7nOm0fwcNB2Sb5WuhZ_uKNdjF8fsFuuLfAQMxoU_i67OjTJiV_cFPR1Ytg101AXUwUQ22IfFxMs2lDw91LG7XO07EAStmFssMVYmF/s1600/Capture.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This design considers interrupting the 12V line. If you do it at the 5v stage after the regulator, you can easily solder the circuit directly to the 5v connector on the motherboard. However, this won't work best because the regulator will continuously draw current from your battery until depletion. Not good.<br />
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On the other hand, interrupting the battery feed directly like the diagram shows, will force you to add a secondary switch or de-solder the original switch.<br />
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Caveats on the design:</h3>
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<ul>
<li>This design requires you to understand LiPo batteries because these are delicate and potentially dangerous. </li>
<li>You will need good soldering skills and take the necessary precautions while connecting everything together and isolating the connections properly.</li>
<li>You will need a special charger to take care of the life of the battery as well as to prevent overcharge.</li>
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Regulator placement</div>
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The three legs of the power switch were de-soldered from the main board and isolated. This power switch now handles 12v instead of 5v.<br />
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Final battery placement</div>
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Project finished, ready for the final cover.</div>
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<h3>
Charging</h3>
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Charging gets accomplished using a special LiPoly charger directly to the balancer connector of the battery. That connector reaches the exterior of the case via the expansion port. If you look closely the last picture you will see a white connector sticking out.<br />
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After finished, I left it on by accident and noticed almost 3 hours later. </div>
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The battery was at 11.7v, plenty of life left. But this definitely reminds me of the....<br />
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To Do</h3>
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Add a low battery automatic shutdown to prevent damage to the battery.</div>
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Thanks for watching, stay tuned.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-39157579647154980342012-12-18T13:04:00.003-03:002021-08-23T18:41:22.765-04:00Casing the SIO2SD inside an Atari XC-12My tips on how to mount any SIO2SD drive inside a cassette tape drive.<br />
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Get the guts out and remove the motors and the board<br />
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Hot glue the micro-switches to the buttons.<br />
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Mount the LCD on the cassette lid.<br />
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Wire the buttons<br />
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Solder the buttons to the main board</div>
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Wire the LCD</div>
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Ready for final mounting. Select a spot and dremel a slot for the SD card. Notice I built a small circuit to enable the rewind button.<br />
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<span style="color: #e69138;">Rewind Option:</span><br />
<span style="color: #e69138;"><br /></span><span style="color: #e69138;"><br /></span><span style="color: #f1c232;"><br /></span><span style="color: #f1c232;">Lotharek's board does not come with a "previous file" / "back" dedicated button.</span><br />
<span style="color: #f1c232;">However, the previous file (navigation in reverse order) can be accomplished by simultaneously pressing SHIFT+K4.</span><br />
<span style="color: #f1c232;"><br /></span><span style="color: #f1c232;">This </span><span style="color: #f1c232;">"rewind option" </span><span style="color: #f1c232;">can be implemented with the following circuit, which emulates the simultaneous press of SHIFT and K4:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAwz4HHI_Ig6oXmpGHj1lhS8qA_A8mlFGOwVxuxAS1eDN86Jh8grXeO7b9sIsk-BCPcD6HboTuhNXtwarR5xonqHkzr3gD9wINYlElZ7hwgBcxYQ_JKZNopYXQm7Ij9OuSNr56ZyrsVTGU/s1600/Capture.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAwz4HHI_Ig6oXmpGHj1lhS8qA_A8mlFGOwVxuxAS1eDN86Jh8grXeO7b9sIsk-BCPcD6HboTuhNXtwarR5xonqHkzr3gD9wINYlElZ7hwgBcxYQ_JKZNopYXQm7Ij9OuSNr56ZyrsVTGU/s1600/Capture.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #f1c232;"><br /></span><span style="color: #f1c232;">It is built out of two NPN transistors in parallel. The base of each of these transistors have its respective current limiting resistor but then are joined together and connected to the "Rewind" key. One emitter goes to the Shift Key and the other emitter goes to K4 in the lotharek Board. As a result, a single press of the rewind key sends a SHIFT+K4 command to the board, producing the desired rewind effect.</span><br />
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SD card in place</div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Final product in production. Everything is battery powered</span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-75991538548683347852012-12-16T11:07:00.000-03:002014-05-30T12:10:27.254-04:00Atari XF-551 Power DC supply mod<b>Find a need:</b><br />
In the absence of the original 9V AC power supply required by the Atari XF-551 5.25 diskette drive, I decided to modify it to a brickless version.<br />
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<b>Fill a need: </b><br />
Since the diskette drive is a standard IDE, we can use a standard IDE power supply (Any power brick capable of 15V and 2A should suffice.<br />
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<b><b>First test: Will this work?</b></b><br />
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Note that if you feed the drive mechanism directly, you will not be feeding the main board of the XF-551, which means you will need to send power back to the board as you see in the picture below. The blue, red and green jumper wires are taking power from the connector board on the drive unit and sending it back through the original IDE connector and through the white ribbon wire to the main board.<br />
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<b>Q: This is a power brick that supplies both 5V and 12V. Can I use something that provides only 12V?</b><br />
While you can connect the power supply to the output of the 12V regulator and 5V regulator in the case your power can supply both voltages, you can't use a single 12V power supply and connect it to the OUTPUT OF THE RECTIFIER BRIDGE, which is a large dice attached to the dissipator. The reason being that you can't feed a 12V regulator with 12V.<br />
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You actually may be able to make it work with 12V to feed the whole board and drive, but chances are that the 12V regulator on the XF551 will deliver only 8 or 9V, which means your drive will be able to read diskettes but NOT WRITE or format anything.<br />
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Bottom line, if you can't find something that provides both 12 AND 5v, go for a 15 V or greater power supply. The on-board regulators will take it from there.<br />
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<b><br /></b>
<b>Now for the final mod in 10 simple steps:</b><br />
There's a great space on the board, just inside the big heat dissipator to place this power unit.<br />
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1) Crack open the plastic case of your PSU, and use the guts, otherwise it will not fit in the drive.<br />
2) De-solder and remove the original 9VAC jack on the main board of the XF-551 to avoid any accidental power supply mixture.<br />
3) Hook the 12V line of the power brick to the 12V output of the 12V onboard regulator and the 5V line of your power brick to the output of the 5V regulator on the XF551.<br />
4) Hook the GND line of the power brick to the GND on the main board of the XF-551.<br />
5) Note that the rear switch has been disabled because the power jack was removed.<br />
6) Pass the AC high voltage cable through the hole left by the absent power jack, and squeeze it with a zip tie to prevent accidental pulling.<br />
7) Solder the mains power cable to the power brick.<br />
8) Isolate the bottom of the power brick with tape and/or cardboard.<br />
9) Stick the power brick to the original heat dissipator using double sided tape.<br />
10) This may get hot, so a small fan will help to keep things cool.<br />
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Picture below shows how yellow cable feeds 12V to the output of the regulator, while the RED wire feeds 5V to the output of the 5V regulator.<br />
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and voliá the PSU inside the XF:<br />
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Isolation is important. This is live voltage. I isolated the bottom side of the PSU board with cardboard and tape. That's in case the heat melts down the glue and the PSU ends up falling on top of the main XF board.<br />
Make sure the bottom part of the PS is adequately isolated.<br />
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You can see there's not a lot of weight added to the unit, and the result is as practical as you see below. The power plug in this particular case is a CEE 7/16 Europlug for 220VAC used by some countries in South America and Europe:<br />
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<b><br /></b>
<span style="font-size: large;">Ah.... there's one more thing.</span><br />
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The XF-551 LED mod.<br />
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Now that your XF is open, add a red LED with a 330Ohm resistor. Hook it up to the 5V line and place the LED RIGHT BEHIND THE ORIGINAL LED.<br />
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The effect is the same as a bi-color LED. The new addition will lit as long as your disk drive has power.<br />
When the drive is spinning, the green (original) led will light up, but it will mix colors with the existing RED led, providing a nice orange color.<br />
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Now you know when your drive is both powered and active, just like the 1050.<br />
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<b>Enjoy!</b><br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-54728285307433125452012-12-09T13:11:00.004-03:002015-04-01T12:48:20.965-03:00Hakko FX-888 (220V version) LED Hack<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAvN_rs-Cfa5qCvkZRlHs3YNfbfbtu8XuacijK0dlZTKRrvwHfMT3jUo6fDxed7vsZ4J9sEKJ1VTrK7w1rvfqJzqw77KYOjAUXkc42p5lzFbKjtyOtQ-Qxzixtn9Ayjv2W6lY8KZHJLuSs/s1600/Capturegreen.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAvN_rs-Cfa5qCvkZRlHs3YNfbfbtu8XuacijK0dlZTKRrvwHfMT3jUo6fDxed7vsZ4J9sEKJ1VTrK7w1rvfqJzqw77KYOjAUXkc42p5lzFbKjtyOtQ-Qxzixtn9Ayjv2W6lY8KZHJLuSs/s200/Capturegreen.PNG" height="176" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UClMhlJvzcqpZ87XfpzLUMILVOH3khwih5ZxiJ1vXBq7GuBtVxqFfsk0dH6F6yavQqJTeVtOM1T1TPdD39UqSVN7j17P_AzMWrGKE8ZDScIEHZUfYpyKLpW8FpfDWny4AWzXQ78lospS/s1600/Capturered.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3UClMhlJvzcqpZ87XfpzLUMILVOH3khwih5ZxiJ1vXBq7GuBtVxqFfsk0dH6F6yavQqJTeVtOM1T1TPdD39UqSVN7j17P_AzMWrGKE8ZDScIEHZUfYpyKLpW8FpfDWny4AWzXQ78lospS/s200/Capturered.PNG" height="158" width="200" /></a></div>
(c) EEVblog<br />
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As seen in Dave's EEVBlog, there's a quite handy hack to help you realize if your soldering iron is turned on or not by replacing the original LED with a bi-color two-legged LED.<br />
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Circuit being basically the same designed by Dave, my version features a small board with a cable extension to the LED.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinD2L8U-YBJPSKDBqb6G2oFoVbUEVD6OItkTvgNDxiwFg0HpC6OJoyma5KayeRP0ywq2ATkUdD4O0tprTIwcxSLrMPwFidgrnI1MWysao01dFuJgbVImSOXkCGUAJvoRf-hknQXvzG6A2E/s1600/IMG_9608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinD2L8U-YBJPSKDBqb6G2oFoVbUEVD6OItkTvgNDxiwFg0HpC6OJoyma5KayeRP0ywq2ATkUdD4O0tprTIwcxSLrMPwFidgrnI1MWysao01dFuJgbVImSOXkCGUAJvoRf-hknQXvzG6A2E/s320/IMG_9608.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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It's a very simple project, check out the schematics below for the 110v version of the soldering station:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZ6nTnu3I1RQDeDGbwPWC-hR0-18pfuzQofgf8qd6mfkhGHFZyMBQreXAr0_LsPvdyLjJSxmKDIUsv6DWiAe9OX30j2cQqdZZhLjF61xfTzKmVT8bePJDuk29BP1goPjKkN3GWq7sbuc5/s1600/schematic_FX888.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCZ6nTnu3I1RQDeDGbwPWC-hR0-18pfuzQofgf8qd6mfkhGHFZyMBQreXAr0_LsPvdyLjJSxmKDIUsv6DWiAe9OX30j2cQqdZZhLjF61xfTzKmVT8bePJDuk29BP1goPjKkN3GWq7sbuc5/s320/schematic_FX888.png" height="318" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Fig 1. Schematics for the 110v version connected to the Hakko microcontroller open collector driver</i></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Instructions for the 220v version of the FX-888: </span></b></div>
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The 220v version happens to be different than the 110v version as it lacks of a microcontroller with an open collector driver. It actually has analog components (some Op amps and an opto isolator to drive the triac).</div>
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In this case, you just need to add a general-purpose opto coupler (2N36) as follows:<br />
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- Feed the opto coupler with the LED pins.<br />
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- Use the open collector of the opto coupler as a driver for the Dave Jones' version of the bi-color LED circuit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7eNuypgSqMRjV8rII0i2MtAV_1hFT6dn9s5pWnbpuE4XI3qMQ2geOB3ENMEZYQfElcILkRfWNlDAIIwX3P_iUxE0R5llY_WxMLWugVrsWWs9DYWrzbkIOXP0Xqqchq6qO-avnKQqXIJMN/s1600/220Version.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7eNuypgSqMRjV8rII0i2MtAV_1hFT6dn9s5pWnbpuE4XI3qMQ2geOB3ENMEZYQfElcILkRfWNlDAIIwX3P_iUxE0R5llY_WxMLWugVrsWWs9DYWrzbkIOXP0Xqqchq6qO-avnKQqXIJMN/s320/220Version.png" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Fig 2. Schematics for the 220v version connected to the original LED terminal</i></div>
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Mounting instructions:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA43Yh2z-vfmDhnx6qLkO3DYKUOGqrkZicYFPeXnYp_NXFuYy6ZGkNMxS-JCr6df2kNI1_oKJkUERUDRTUVOpf_6l26D8tanjla720nl8kPwqA5hSqPaUvTYnSkwLyMeiM4HkpMtqFd2pH/s1600/IMG_9781.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA43Yh2z-vfmDhnx6qLkO3DYKUOGqrkZicYFPeXnYp_NXFuYy6ZGkNMxS-JCr6df2kNI1_oKJkUERUDRTUVOpf_6l26D8tanjla720nl8kPwqA5hSqPaUvTYnSkwLyMeiM4HkpMtqFd2pH/s320/IMG_9781.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Red and black wires are coming out from where the original LED was and they feed the optocoupler.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xG5YWayQRE3CRo2Q_jgTlV0kRk9Px7ualttVBKkbacVfaLVtE0QiWZ5CLSGNRDydHx4EN4ZWAF9r2E6PK2t3pzcPng_cWv2jEgg_08K-6zs4ag-BaOhEbcZjcg43GxwFDLtsAKp6LILU/s1600/IMG_9782.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6xG5YWayQRE3CRo2Q_jgTlV0kRk9Px7ualttVBKkbacVfaLVtE0QiWZ5CLSGNRDydHx4EN4ZWAF9r2E6PK2t3pzcPng_cWv2jEgg_08K-6zs4ag-BaOhEbcZjcg43GxwFDLtsAKp6LILU/s320/IMG_9782.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Ground terminal for the blinking circuit is taken from the negative side of the big capacitor, with easy access through the large resistor. The other end of this same resistor will be used to feed the Vcc line. There is a 10v voltage drop at this resistor.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCsZCLHthtPM_nB1gcqvlDgC7U2JrtaKOKsmqUT-YXmxkSTpoa6mEY7GajFzET0r_T0Oa1ysCAuIztwx4CBjN2_9iJyZuDTiUttQ8TRFTsBITStihRMd6NXP-xPKlVqUzuDuNYZsJFd7-/s1600/IMG_9784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcCsZCLHthtPM_nB1gcqvlDgC7U2JrtaKOKsmqUT-YXmxkSTpoa6mEY7GajFzET0r_T0Oa1ysCAuIztwx4CBjN2_9iJyZuDTiUttQ8TRFTsBITStihRMd6NXP-xPKlVqUzuDuNYZsJFd7-/s320/IMG_9784.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>The completed project working. The result is the exact same result you will see in the video below.</i></div>
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<b>Now look closer. See how I covered the high voltage section with Gorilla tape while working? That's what smart people do. Please be careful when testing your circuit with the case open as 220VAC can kill you, or someone else -your cat included-.</b></div>
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Even simpler would be to drill a small hole on your iron and add a second LED hooked up to any Vcc point you may find on your board, just as I did with my old Atten station a couple of years ago, addressing the exact same LED issue.</div>
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And this is the original video with -as always- a great explanation from Dave Jones. Thank you Dave.</div>
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/rtlN0b-gkic?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-71553427629211292202012-05-17T20:48:00.000-04:002014-11-01T12:26:43.483-03:00LCD serial display out of an old Palm<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1llHqmac6va3XP6N7YMX0eemCSzGp4IrUKMS14oRf6jfO6dff5t0kzzmqgY5vW4OeSycLuldZl9XznXwSvzd7W6vv99d5GoToVBJROv4yl_zWeturVk47u5O2_FVQIJzswPIvgrauKAhH/s1600/s3.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1llHqmac6va3XP6N7YMX0eemCSzGp4IrUKMS14oRf6jfO6dff5t0kzzmqgY5vW4OeSycLuldZl9XznXwSvzd7W6vv99d5GoToVBJROv4yl_zWeturVk47u5O2_FVQIJzswPIvgrauKAhH/s400/s3.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's a good way of recycling old hardware: Use a palm device for your Arduino projects as a full-featured display.
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You may want to get rid of the DB9 serial cable by just cutting it from the cradle and adding this small and cheap TTL-RS232 converter made of two transistors and four resistors. This circuit is a must, since the palm device uses RS232 levels to communicate while your Arduino or other micro will most likely use TTL levels.<br />
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Make sure you have some spare method to transfer software from the computer to the palm if needed, such as an SD card.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvFdQ92s4weNSyt6M-79BfK7NiBtrgS9Jjyl-WgldBrrbwtxBh-D_PapoC_4ufeJcJrfisgMTa9jWSNI4loUMLcrF6tmVQlpRH82tICBgH5PxFbUH2MlcVQawGSKgDUVnvrIsfWf4mhKX/s1600/IMG_8836.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggvFdQ92s4weNSyt6M-79BfK7NiBtrgS9Jjyl-WgldBrrbwtxBh-D_PapoC_4ufeJcJrfisgMTa9jWSNI4loUMLcrF6tmVQlpRH82tICBgH5PxFbUH2MlcVQawGSKgDUVnvrIsfWf4mhKX/s400/IMG_8836.JPG" height="338" width="400" /></a></div>
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The circuit in place.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisiFXscMzP1O2-VZ3IpJvBvi9OTYfLyPjN_988otSFYYBRoz0wvGDbkopks2pmDHHjNVeXfoiYJthaXCzfT6VOIKAFfj6viNbzBknMHloq2fvdq8WxNCSs3kkOW5qXIPFXyeqoxOSyImO3/s1600/IMG_8838.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisiFXscMzP1O2-VZ3IpJvBvi9OTYfLyPjN_988otSFYYBRoz0wvGDbkopks2pmDHHjNVeXfoiYJthaXCzfT6VOIKAFfj6viNbzBknMHloq2fvdq8WxNCSs3kkOW5qXIPFXyeqoxOSyImO3/s400/IMG_8838.JPG" height="256" width="400" /></a></div>
Rear view of the cradle.<br />
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The circuit fits nicely in the cradle, and the schematics are a modified design taken from Jim's Projects [<a href="http://jimlaurwilliams.org/wordpress/?p=1573">Link</a>] I made a different design choice here, and pull up the palm's RX line directly from +5V instead of doing it from DTR.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4waYemCLzRDiTdAsyvk70_GxvNiqgnO6RVDXVkBEpRjNQCYuOwFqwNTQI3C0MRcLuWKlh6ykcGPTMXGHdR0ESx-sO-1NGkZGtNcPpEfCs9djPBES6INUseF02S8P6DTPqU7YfCOOX964t/s1600/Untitled-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4waYemCLzRDiTdAsyvk70_GxvNiqgnO6RVDXVkBEpRjNQCYuOwFqwNTQI3C0MRcLuWKlh6ykcGPTMXGHdR0ESx-sO-1NGkZGtNcPpEfCs9djPBES6INUseF02S8P6DTPqU7YfCOOX964t/s1600/Untitled-1.jpg" height="167" width="400" /></a></div>
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Schematics for the TTL-RS232 conversion circuit.<br />
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If you don't plan to use your Palm as a serial input device, then the TX line of the Palm (pin 2) is optional and you may wish to use only the output line of your microcontroller for a unidirectional configuration.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB2SPqZgRDt1lZdl1-84NH3wgqykAOIlj2bIwMRVzlPtTYMKcDLDrfXAH2DdlebhU_ZxIuX87KT3QOgUNTygBLhT6Qsq5zi4lqT0os5PqgX93xY08gctO_IuIpIrE67rbegI0LtWFtBnob/s1600/s1.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB2SPqZgRDt1lZdl1-84NH3wgqykAOIlj2bIwMRVzlPtTYMKcDLDrfXAH2DdlebhU_ZxIuX87KT3QOgUNTygBLhT6Qsq5zi4lqT0os5PqgX93xY08gctO_IuIpIrE67rbegI0LtWFtBnob/s400/s1.jpg" height="282" width="400" /></a></div>
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The finished setup at work. You can keep it handy in your workbench. The stand helps to keep it at a nice view angle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEUNMSO1OPbrp0E0UVXps0yY4liZ6qJrWvridxUVEEzJPsqWpilzE0psBjnevOqn6QE2hS1RDIoAA1soznReHoF9S8hycXx2V1uCcTpO8h8vom0JTin_MUR1f61gIOSj-CWNTFPoq22Kr/s1600/s2.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYEUNMSO1OPbrp0E0UVXps0yY4liZ6qJrWvridxUVEEzJPsqWpilzE0psBjnevOqn6QE2hS1RDIoAA1soznReHoF9S8hycXx2V1uCcTpO8h8vom0JTin_MUR1f61gIOSj-CWNTFPoq22Kr/s400/s2.jpg" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here you can see a repurposed Palm with PalmOrb software, which emulates a 16x4 LCD screen.<br />
However you can use any standard Palm terminal software.<br />
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Plug and Play, no especial libraries required in the Arduino.<br />
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Enjoy!<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-69287715603566329722012-04-27T14:44:00.002-03:002012-05-14T16:07:51.926-04:00DSO Nano made usefulDSO Nano V2 from Seeedstudio is a great hobbyist scope. Even though not Pro, it has proven to be very helpful for troubleshooting everyday situations.
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There are two things however, where this scope really sucks: The stand, and the probe. The probes that come with it are cheap and ugly. The stand is a small piece of aluminum that will not hold the scope in place, making it difficult to work with.
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So How to fixe them both?: You can get a standard probe from Amazon and adapt a small plug in just minutes. The stand is even easier if you happen to have a Panavise Jr: The DSO fits perfectly and stays rock solid! <br/> This not only provides good angle for viewing but also allows single-handed operation, which for many will be the most important feature.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX74KelDvAcObmPmxDPDqZy4kgKYDU7DDV1S0u8mDtBEiaxNtlAdg6KSRB-59SYYrvS_6zEY6GabN1IphJHnQ4EVUPZAE39p625tem7p3W2dXi9fDG5GCfeXgLPq0s84bfSqc83F8XGlVX/s1600/DSO+Nano.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="396" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX74KelDvAcObmPmxDPDqZy4kgKYDU7DDV1S0u8mDtBEiaxNtlAdg6KSRB-59SYYrvS_6zEY6GabN1IphJHnQ4EVUPZAE39p625tem7p3W2dXi9fDG5GCfeXgLPq0s84bfSqc83F8XGlVX/s400/DSO+Nano.jpg" /></a></div>
This is the best stand for the DSO Nano you will ever come up with.
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Standard connector with the MONO metal plug:
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJfXGaXqmqkX5BgRZghrXm2YRZ0YKWXeo3lyy0Bpa5wOFW6dY8sTfaMSA1MplRbo2BJdg9Fb308kc8fUBs7UWq35yBbzm8hzkhUZba6g-lMxyXjmS8h4aam1sA1nB9Gh8fvZo1l4_1UKX/s1600/connector.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="388" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsJfXGaXqmqkX5BgRZghrXm2YRZ0YKWXeo3lyy0Bpa5wOFW6dY8sTfaMSA1MplRbo2BJdg9Fb308kc8fUBs7UWq35yBbzm8hzkhUZba6g-lMxyXjmS8h4aam1sA1nB9Gh8fvZo1l4_1UKX/s400/connector.jpg" /></a></div>
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The finished probe for the Nano:
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GqorbnRr-wI_hhTmXLUFbZYJyzWVs3OihKRv0SvalwJnQcbNO7OwTUW7iQEWtTPeiHQrpp5V0tiw40Bbs-C5aW-ANg0t3FYqneAO0j0NARlp5vh1ct_3rozjtVSjE8N2gfqisi8SAqMm/s1600/connector2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="232" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6GqorbnRr-wI_hhTmXLUFbZYJyzWVs3OihKRv0SvalwJnQcbNO7OwTUW7iQEWtTPeiHQrpp5V0tiw40Bbs-C5aW-ANg0t3FYqneAO0j0NARlp5vh1ct_3rozjtVSjE8N2gfqisi8SAqMm/s400/connector2.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-46735824943594705922011-11-05T12:14:00.002-03:002020-11-24T15:36:14.195-03:00Arduino based Big Countdown Timer for New Year<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Y8mymxFt7eg0nnf3YWxa-4aVhVrHDWUFPu-JomTgRbV17wGm8vWH8Yqjr1G9poxDlfZ6HWufVpgb_sh_k8aZsqE0JLc98_PDQlwZgq4-6ygIjgCsc3KVU5i4WTsDolXN7Cb86ZVyJ4EZ/s1600/IMG_8291.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Y8mymxFt7eg0nnf3YWxa-4aVhVrHDWUFPu-JomTgRbV17wGm8vWH8Yqjr1G9poxDlfZ6HWufVpgb_sh_k8aZsqE0JLc98_PDQlwZgq4-6ygIjgCsc3KVU5i4WTsDolXN7Cb86ZVyJ4EZ/s320/IMG_8291.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>The finished project at 11:39, before turning itself into a countdown timer. This timer has been in production since December 31st 2011 (upd: still in production as of 2020!)</i></div>
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October, 2011.<br />
Inspired by <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/47">Sparkfun's GPS clock</a>, I decided to build my own version of a big countdown timer for New Year.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">1) The concept</span></b><br />
Dual function: A clock that starts at 11:00PM and simply shows the time for the entire hour. The idea behind it is to drive people's attention and let them know where the clock is.<br />
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I didn't need a 24h clock, only something that tells the time from 11:00p to 11:58p and turns into a countdown timer for the last minute (the hour digits turns off and the countdown starts from second 59 to 00).<br />
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This approach saved me 6 segments and some space as well.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">2) The clock itself:</span></b> <br />
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I went as readable as I could, readable but portable. I used bright white LEDs (not ultra-bright) and some transistors. I happen to like Ben Krasnow's <a href="http://benkrasnow.blogspot.com/2011/05/how-to-design-transistor-circuit-that.html">way of dealing with transistors</a>.<br />
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This is what the first concept looks like:<br />
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<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">3) Controlling the clock: </span></b><br />
I used an Arduino and shift registers to control the segments, you can also use two Arduinos via I2C.<br />
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<i>Two shift registers (74HC595) command the segments. </i></div>
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<i>An Arduino controls the shift registers, cycling about 150 times per second.</i></div>
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<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">4) Time accuracy:</span></b><br />
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I wanted this thing to be accurate. The Atmega chip keeps track of time but they are not accurate enough over long periods of time, reason why I added a <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/99">RealTime Clock Module</a>.<br />
Now, in order to have the RTC set at the right time, I added <a href="http://arduino.cc/playground/Main/DS1307OfTheLogshieldByMeansOfNTP">NTP Atomic Clock Synchronization</a> capabilities through an <a href="http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9026">Ethernet Shield</a>. <br />
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<u>Edit:</u> After the first year into production, I decided to simplify the design by replacing the RTC+Ethernet shield with an LCD shield. This allows to manually adjust the clock while having a simpler setup.<br />
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In order to keep accuracy I use an NTP app in my iPhone and manually adjust the Arduino until it's synchronized by using the buttons available on the LCD shield.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">5) The Design:</span></b><br />
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Before the shift registers, I used a two-arduino approach with served me well while shift registers were not available at the local store.<br />
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One GREAT source to understand how the shift registers work is here at <a href="http://bildr.org/2011/02/74hc595/">BLDR.ORG</a>:<br />
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<img alt="Check out bldr.org" border="0" height="301" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirx-61S_B5xU9r3tMaptaQZ9oB3MPGEGf0a861efNHxnYeUfRW0Lolnu5oCKlqqRs55WsgTsmn9DMB3nKVjC11SmHIQRDkgNSuEuzX0Y0-bRGC9lmJShD2EFvKUtEugaRqTdRSWEGC54tA/s1600/Capture.PNG" title="Check out bldr.org" width="320" /></div>
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Wiring of the 74HC595 I used. <a href="http://bildr.org/2011/02/74hc595/">Check out bldr.org</a>!</div>
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Back to the design board:<br />
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- I wanted to balance the amount of LEDs with functionality, and I ended up with 3 LEDs per segment.<br />
- I could have gone with larger digits but I found that the size I went with was good enough.<br />
- I wanted this to be both inexpensive and battery operated so I chose super-bright leds instead of ultra-bright.<br />
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<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">6) The build:</span></b><br />
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This design calls for portable and lightweight, so let's use these convenient cardboard box lid.<br />
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<i>I had these boxes in my storage room. I borrowed 3 lids.</i></div>
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<i>Design of the digits. I drew them proportional to a small 7 segment display, under the assumption that it will increase readability.</i></div>
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Adding the LEDs to each segment:<br />
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<i>8 segments in place. Each segment consists of 3 LEDs</i></div>
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Time to solder some wire, add current limiting resistors, some transistors and more resistors for their base just like the original design in paper.<br />
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<i>Wiring at the back. The deadbug chip at the center is a resistor array.</i></div>
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First test:<br />
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<i>First digit is complete. number 3 shows up.</i></div>
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And then another instance of the same digit plus a third that only does number 11, to get the project complete.<br />
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<i>Front of the completed project, the three digits can be easily separated and piled up for easy transportation.</i></div>
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<i>Back of the unit</i></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><i>Back of the unit</i></span><br />
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<i>Portable mode!</i></div>
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Main controller</div>
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Test scenario: balcony. View from ground, several floors below:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLoGek-95zTLvUY9qtMitBCsVyvhlxKKZejuk5vKj9DDnFm7TKbTNZ7xDOS4QXzk6Dodbml-IjxbH3CA8t3EqZVy8Fttd-55G5Cfr-x5W4aWgqKGzCDVKuJ4_W0WR6Gt-1Hap48O7dYrdU/s1600/IMG_8300.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLoGek-95zTLvUY9qtMitBCsVyvhlxKKZejuk5vKj9DDnFm7TKbTNZ7xDOS4QXzk6Dodbml-IjxbH3CA8t3EqZVy8Fttd-55G5Cfr-x5W4aWgqKGzCDVKuJ4_W0WR6Gt-1Hap48O7dYrdU/s320/IMG_8300.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Photo Enhanced ASA800 (Canon S3IS)</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbxEA-scaw9GjKpDaVvw95Anu1KqF2pgEl-nCH4OxwTE-6yTmDrLEyZgscoAl7jCI6Q9kQ6IfSohZacpQLTTAc0B0U6YPpOgmzjVM6tUX2ga9d6khQX2-R4qIKBmMP2pFi_cwKR8_7yEK/s1600/IMG_8293.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbxEA-scaw9GjKpDaVvw95Anu1KqF2pgEl-nCH4OxwTE-6yTmDrLEyZgscoAl7jCI6Q9kQ6IfSohZacpQLTTAc0B0U6YPpOgmzjVM6tUX2ga9d6khQX2-R4qIKBmMP2pFi_cwKR8_7yEK/s320/IMG_8293.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Normal Photo (ASA 100)</i></div>
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<b><span style="color: #6fa8dc;">7) Power:</span></b> <br />
<br />
When all of the LEDs are on, consumption of the whole circuit is reasonably low.<br />
This allows me to power the entire system with a 2000[mAh] 11.1[V] Lithium Polymer battery, making the clock 100% autonomous for the whole hour it is used.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iXa_p13ZWmQ/TvXqRmEvwOI/AAAAAAAABeQ/zZUh8-vSFt0/s1600/IMG_5384.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iXa_p13ZWmQ/TvXqRmEvwOI/AAAAAAAABeQ/zZUh8-vSFt0/s320/IMG_5384.jpg" width="290" /></a></div>
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Happy new year! - Viña del Mar, Chile.</i></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com4South Africa-30.559482 22.937505999999985-44.746997 2.2832089999999852 -16.371966999999998 43.591802999999985tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-53650030898145416082011-01-05T20:43:00.000-03:002011-12-18T23:52:51.309-03:00Arduino Protoshield Mods<b><i>Three simple and quick modifications that will transform your protoshield to a fully functional monster.</i></b><br />
<br />
<b>1) One millimeter higher:</b><br />
<br />
Use 4 male header plastic bits. One for each of the 4 corners of the protoshield<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0-gvFkfhNkDvCwE0WhY06gO0AphuiiyHffBdcFqWe2i2dkpph5S3WBijY3C4KrBuWy6Xu-gxkVDCccmKnVGPnWaXf8NU0CJWM8VZDEbBsIlvrvZY-pqL6rZlPOgju-6cBZOM70eBH2uqX/s1600/IMG_7923.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="296" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0-gvFkfhNkDvCwE0WhY06gO0AphuiiyHffBdcFqWe2i2dkpph5S3WBijY3C4KrBuWy6Xu-gxkVDCccmKnVGPnWaXf8NU0CJWM8VZDEbBsIlvrvZY-pqL6rZlPOgju-6cBZOM70eBH2uqX/s320/IMG_7923.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This way, the protoshield stands a little higher than standard</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzUDPlZJsv8MB438c8uKOup84BvMkMOBv4uvJRuUGrNRo0_jEsf5fB2Ij4iWb90y4aDTOBtvq2BjCbJI9kUQLLFOvVxCm1LRiu1iRNQozjVFWyDrWkzyG3qqs0NduS_K3ExG27lyLU87P/s1600/IMG_7930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNzUDPlZJsv8MB438c8uKOup84BvMkMOBv4uvJRuUGrNRo0_jEsf5fB2Ij4iWb90y4aDTOBtvq2BjCbJI9kUQLLFOvVxCm1LRiu1iRNQozjVFWyDrWkzyG3qqs0NduS_K3ExG27lyLU87P/s320/IMG_7930.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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But the benefits are great: You don't have to worry about shorts with the USB connector anymore.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFumNu1rmRQAXwYpHpK66nz7mI0IUe_qXRSMmFMb1uzu5vLBtwPGYEUJd_fuWn3UKQ-I08UM12cTOdnUTMfD7aIhtChmluVJfu-VBAkZXvdzsaXUfkYBQ5yl4-DNKTqWH0cSeROLazHakB/s1600/IMG_7928.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFumNu1rmRQAXwYpHpK66nz7mI0IUe_qXRSMmFMb1uzu5vLBtwPGYEUJd_fuWn3UKQ-I08UM12cTOdnUTMfD7aIhtChmluVJfu-VBAkZXvdzsaXUfkYBQ5yl4-DNKTqWH0cSeROLazHakB/s320/IMG_7928.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Safe distance. At the same time, the protoshield is so much easier to plug and unplug now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnKyyygQkcwYzEHnjeSMYD46XHNpsBzbNnUwxi1GuTVnYKRdtl-CM7UKJBlkNAm5gOWeHDReCunsB2YeIghdMtJPGx3DNgd9FfcyLv3LBZPx-6p1ZetD6A3-OAIXcMg3CF38bX38p8Jit3/s1600/IMG_7931.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnKyyygQkcwYzEHnjeSMYD46XHNpsBzbNnUwxi1GuTVnYKRdtl-CM7UKJBlkNAm5gOWeHDReCunsB2YeIghdMtJPGx3DNgd9FfcyLv3LBZPx-6p1ZetD6A3-OAIXcMg3CF38bX38p8Jit3/s320/IMG_7931.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>2) An LED tester</b><br />
<br />
I don't use the BlueSmirf socket. But I connected the female headers because it provides an extra +5 and extra GND for prototyping.
<br />
With a single 300 Ohm resistor between GND and the centermost pin (originally unused in the Sparkfun protoshield, you will be able to use the two centermost pins to test any led: Very handy!!!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrtroHBrWxLm14XC4BMu2qdiDsOXpZW4z1MIdtnJPCG9vJyuZgzmODAt0XOQVZkbP7w0o8MsMYEKajB_aob20sN6759Yxu2tly-XNUkHR1s7nwtk1rmmJzZFNg-sEhLIF3_MOF9lNi1m0/s1600/IMG_7924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhrtroHBrWxLm14XC4BMu2qdiDsOXpZW4z1MIdtnJPCG9vJyuZgzmODAt0XOQVZkbP7w0o8MsMYEKajB_aob20sN6759Yxu2tly-XNUkHR1s7nwtk1rmmJzZFNg-sEhLIF3_MOF9lNi1m0/s320/IMG_7924.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
<b>3) A Power LED on top</b><br />
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If you add a resistor to +5 and an LED on top will serve as a Power LED on top of the protoshield. This is very handy to make sure your system is powered:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQq8dcVXtBeQTWeigVy7kfGIu7srDn0JagxF4eg6O3Cxsvtvq5dy1AVW8guFNfxdIC4EMRDVts6UNBebeowjWVXauP7EMbjRL3H40pCJCT1lxs1RfD9S1oYw3L45Ojl2yI3oqazI2MkmTR/s1600/IMG_7925.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQq8dcVXtBeQTWeigVy7kfGIu7srDn0JagxF4eg6O3Cxsvtvq5dy1AVW8guFNfxdIC4EMRDVts6UNBebeowjWVXauP7EMbjRL3H40pCJCT1lxs1RfD9S1oYw3L45Ojl2yI3oqazI2MkmTR/s320/IMG_7925.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Enjoy!</div>
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-52775661636986929972010-12-01T20:41:00.000-03:002012-04-27T16:44:20.384-03:00Helping hand modsHow to get more help from your helping hand:<br />
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1) Add a third hand to your third hand: The reason is that you will be soldering something being held by the main pair of alligators, and will still need an extra clip to hold a wire you want to tin before soldering.
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2) Wrap the teeth with heatshrink tubing: It will prevent the teeth from scratching your boards or other delicate subjects.
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3) Rubber Pads for increased grip. A must-add!
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWAsXchCDt1qjRf4iOuz_MIUvbW6w7hi63xImxTZEPffmXKhmxfNpq-3zrznxn8jkrjrpz_TGXjlFXHcLTkKNfLOMkWhztzgAY6rvGP-QsaTi084OeCbMUkYY8A4a5W_HnZ3rBJ5hYT7w/s1600/thirdhand.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="400" width="359" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJWAsXchCDt1qjRf4iOuz_MIUvbW6w7hi63xImxTZEPffmXKhmxfNpq-3zrznxn8jkrjrpz_TGXjlFXHcLTkKNfLOMkWhztzgAY6rvGP-QsaTi084OeCbMUkYY8A4a5W_HnZ3rBJ5hYT7w/s400/thirdhand.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzkz6pI2tH6YPXmI2dwaLuWRpqniXGH05cZcKscDcyPYDBjgmxQiJnKHFftPcVS5Jz0KV5dV8V_9ElXuQdq-Ya69wyNU3r8yUTTMzc-ZO3cqLpPyRF49g274W1zWKbFnJhJdj55h73n52/s1600/pads.jpg" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzkz6pI2tH6YPXmI2dwaLuWRpqniXGH05cZcKscDcyPYDBjgmxQiJnKHFftPcVS5Jz0KV5dV8V_9ElXuQdq-Ya69wyNU3r8yUTTMzc-ZO3cqLpPyRF49g274W1zWKbFnJhJdj55h73n52/s400/pads.jpg" /></a></div>
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Use it backwards just as shown in the first picture: This way the vertical force coming from the weight of your circuit will not be enough to tip it over. Seems pretty obvious but for a time it wasn't for me.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNWFaPIC3tSrScRsyJQqxv1y-zbKANvZGG5NE9CXW7R7ApHOE4JSVP0mVQkzVgg45b6awqRWEZuzvELrcuCVWmtSw9LcbkO4WztVv5XGQKeoVNf1zfLVI6ZDikg_ZlhSai2AeNeBsIaGn/s1600/IMG_8743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style=""><img border="0" height="300" width="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcNWFaPIC3tSrScRsyJQqxv1y-zbKANvZGG5NE9CXW7R7ApHOE4JSVP0mVQkzVgg45b6awqRWEZuzvELrcuCVWmtSw9LcbkO4WztVv5XGQKeoVNf1zfLVI6ZDikg_ZlhSai2AeNeBsIaGn/s400/IMG_8743.JPG" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-17112739011823138302010-07-29T21:35:00.000-04:002011-12-18T23:56:46.181-03:00Atari SIO interface using a DuemilanoveHow to interface your vintage Atari 130XE (800XL and others) with a laptop in order to download and play games using the laptop as a substitute for the Atari floppy disk drive.<br />
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<b><a href="http://arduino.cc/forum/index.php/topic,82793.0.html">Click here to go to Arduino Forums and see the post</a></b><br />
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<img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpjEO5ou_3ftnkdzr1AtMvB_R9QI0rl8LH8cIUbA9GXD-siULwBim25TNerOGyGJfYQtY0NHXyK7jAdrWqgujksYoKt3CQqvTsPGuDpmmFz_hYWqQb5vFXUHYvHgfk-2p6R8uDm11cc9gN/s400/Atari.PNG" width="252" /></div>
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</div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-881226244478613219.post-69031359024309493592010-03-21T21:10:00.001-03:002023-11-21T09:23:48.813-03:00Extremely simple I/O port expansion using two arduinos and I2CHere's a simple way to expand your I/O ports using two Atmega microcontrollers.<br />
<br />It works flawlessly in my projects, even with other I2C devices hooked up at the same time. This may not be as cheap as using a multiplexer, shift registers, a MuxShield or so many other ways of doing this but hey, this approach may save you if in need of more ports and you have more than one Arduino in your parts bin.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg_wB2PdZtrMcpxuPN_h3-d3eULvPfk1fSc8qpM15kWmsVU9RRivStjbMhHH-e13vWeLZ3xXiXnNgIwxpckYN5MtEVcBAS5mt656peXM-twr2MVv6fRR7LhFmkX618dn94R3WkbLvJSYNn/s1600/i2c.PNG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjg_wB2PdZtrMcpxuPN_h3-d3eULvPfk1fSc8qpM15kWmsVU9RRivStjbMhHH-e13vWeLZ3xXiXnNgIwxpckYN5MtEVcBAS5mt656peXM-twr2MVv6fRR7LhFmkX618dn94R3WkbLvJSYNn/s320/i2c.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>The connection diagram. The pull-up resistors shown are optional.</i></div>
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<br />
The connection is the same as what you would do with a standard I2C between two arduinos. I added pull-up resistors to each wire.<br />
<div style="color: #ffe599;">
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<div style="color: #ffe599;">
<b><span class="Apple-style-span">Basically what this does is to allow the master Arduino to access the remote's I/O pins, thus, expanding its original I/O capacity. You can hook up many Arduinos in parallel expanding to more I/O pins as needed. </span></b></div>
<div style="color: #ffe599;"> </div>
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For the code, I started with "Wire Slave Receiver" by <a href="http://www.zambetti.com/">Nicholas Zambetti</a> and modified it to this purpose:<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f1c232;"><b></b></span><br />
<b style="color: #f1c232;">The code at the Master Arduino:</b><br />
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<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>#include <Wire.h></i></span><br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>#define LOCAL_PIN_TWO 2 // Pin 2 on local </i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>#define REMOTE_PIN_TWO 102 // Pin 2 on remote </i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>#define TEMPERATURE_PROBE_PIN 103 // Pin 3 on remote<br />#define SPEAKER_PIN 104 // Pin 4 on remote</i></span><br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>void setup()</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>{</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.begin(); // join i2c bus (address optional for master)</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>}</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>void loop()</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>{</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>// Whenever you want to write to the other Arduino just go with something such as expansionWrite(102,HIGH); </i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>// That will -for example- set the pin 2 on the second arduino to high. I used the 102 nomenclature only to differentiate the two boards. It avoids confusion. You will see how the exceeding 100 is substracted when the time comes.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>}</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i><br /></i></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>void expansionWrite(int pin, int value)</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>{</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> pin = pin-100; // substracts 100 so it maps to the real ports on the expansion arduino</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.beginTransmission(2); // transmit to device #2</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.send(pin); // sends one byte stating the pin to be addressed</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.send(value); // sends the value to be transmitted to the pin selected</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.endTransmission(); // stop transmitting</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>}</i></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #f1c232;"><b>The code at the Slave Arduino:</b></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace; font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>#include <Wire.h></i></span><br />
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999;"><br /></span></i>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>void setup()</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>{</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.begin(2); // join i2c bus with address #2</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.onReceive(receiveEvent); // register event</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>}</i></span><br />
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999;"><br /></span></i>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>void loop()</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>{</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> // Whatever. maybe nothing.</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>}</i></span><br />
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999;"><br /></span></i>
<i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"></span></i><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>void receiveEvent(int howMany)</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>{</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> int port = Wire.receive(); // receive byte as an integer</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> int value = Wire.receive(); // receives the byte with the value</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> digitalWrite(port,value); // sets the pin to the desired value</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>}</i></span><br />
<br />
<br />
Final Note: You can even use the second arduino for READING at the same time even it's a slave machine. The only thing you need to do is add some extra code as follows:<br />
<br />
Master requests the value on a certain pin located at the slave Arduino:<br />
<br />
<br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.beginTransmission(2); // transmit to device #2</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.requestFrom(2, 1); // Requests 1 byte from device #2</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> remote_pin_status = Wire.receive();</i></span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.endTransmission(); // stop transmitting</i></span><br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Then the slave needs something like this:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>void setup()</i></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>{</i></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.onRequest(requestEvent); // register event</i></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>}</i></span></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
and somewhere else in your code something like this:</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>void requestEvent()</i></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>{</i></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> byte variable_name = digitalRead(pin_of_your_choice);</i></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i> Wire.send(variable_name); // respond with message of 1 byte as expected from Master</i></span></div>
<div>
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #999999; font-family: "courier new" , "courier" , monospace;"><i>}</i></span></div>
</div>
<br />
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